Die richtige Montage von Kolbenringen I BAR-TEK® Motorsport

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Die richtige Montage von Kolbenringen I BAR-TEK® Motorsport

Now again a new video about piston rings this time. Here not in miniature somewhat enlarged, piston rings Then I can explain it better right now As you can see here, this is the cooperation of the rings and this is what the piston rings are all about to adjust This is what I’m going to show you Let’s start with a selenium flask, so you can see and understand Selenium piston, if you buy it at Audi or VW, comes nicely packed in this package, the piston rings are already mounted You can see they’re already moving on it, the way it should be In this case, if the piston rings are assembled by vw or audi, they are ready for installation. So there is no need to check or adjust the clearance Take the piston, put it on the connecting rod and install it.But this is a series piston, series pistons are only available for series bore, that means, if we bore in block to the next dimensionthere are no series pistons Another disadvantage is of course that the standard pistons are only designed for a certain performance, since we go higher with just the boost pressure etc., the piston falls out The other reason why we do not use series-produced pistons is also the compression. I’m going to show you this right here on the trough Because we want to, or have to, use more boost pressure for higher performance, we also have to reduce compression. We will shoot a separate video for condensation, because you often ask that too. You can do that here on the production piston, this is a golf 7 piston, but you can see that compared to the other pistons. The hollow here is relatively small, means the volume that the piston has, in contrast to these are now JE pistons. The trough is much bigger and because the trough is much bigger, we have less compaction. By the way We’re putting away serial pistons now We’ll get to the piston rings. We got the block here, that’s two liters of tfsi Bwa motor but it does not play a role it is all the same bwa, cta, alxx They only differ in certain details, but that is not so important now It’s drilled to 83 So first oversize, standard measures are 82.5. Now we have pistons We got pistons, in which case the pistons are from JE. The pistons come with piston rings, these are separate A ring installation guide is always included with the piston rings. So it says exactly what you actually have to do. Here also very important: ring and gap. That’s what this game is all about This is one of the most important things we have to adjust when building engines, especially pistons. So apart from measuring, weighing and inspecting them, adjusting the backlash is necessary and has to be done. Not only does it have to be controlled, it has to be done – individually for each cylinder. Block is drilled, is ready, piston and rings we have here Here, I’ve repainted this. This is the shot that we want Us with our stacking ring To make it a little bigger. We also make to every engine, as it is always usual, even in racing, we have in the formula 1 also made so, always a picture paper. A protocol there are all documents, everything that is built into the engine. Here, for example, we measured and checked the bore 83.00 and then later started with the ring play. Here is ring game, so top, top ring and middle ring we’ll just fill it all in. So we recorded everything and if you wanted to look after a year or whatever, what kind of ring game we drove, we could always look up. So we can also present something to the customer and say, here we have adjusted the backlash. So even if you build an engine for yourself, it definitely makes sense to write it down We start briefly with the rings at the bottom of the oil scraper. The oil scraper consists of three parts. Once the spring ring once this one and another upper and lower support ring They always stick together like this, this one You should actually check them, but we don’t, because from our own experience, i think they are also on here, oil ring rails is is also on here, but in my opinion that is not necessary. We did and checked a lot in the beginning. You don’t have to bother with that I’ll just tell you how i’ve been doing it for years, sure you can do more. Only less should not be done I’m just going to say what’s important, so you can put that in

and make this thing work Now we see here the pistons, I have already mentioned with the installation direction, how they will be installed later Here again the hint: at “entrance” the pockets are deeper, so you can remember this. The inlet valves, which means that in this direction it also goes to the control side why are they deeper? Because at overlap inlet opens and outlet closes. This is why there is always the highest risk that the valve will touch the piston. Because the piston comes up twice as fast as the velvet opens and there is the danger of a collision at high rpm I always make myself such beautiful bowls where I put the piston rings. 4, 3, 2, 1 First ring, it shines so beautiful and the second ring is rather darker they consist of different materials, because they also contain different purposes. The first ring is the most stressed, that is compression ring and the second ring, he’s doing an interim job, between compressing and the supply of the of the oil budget virtually at the well Therefore they consist of different materials and must also treated slightly differently, i.e with the piston ring file. I’ve already put it here, just like the block is right there. If we take another quick look at the block here is 1,2,3,4. Here is the inlet side here is for example also the water pump, you can see from that, there is the control frame and the toothed belt. That means, here is cylinder 1, or you can also remember, here is the flywheel, power output side opposite to cylinder 1. So I recommend to lay them them all down in such a way, so that you don’t mix them up later and lay them down as it should be, then then the least mistakes will happen. Now we try the first ring, we take cylinder 1. The piston rings also have a marking, in this case there is a number on it. N 200 is on the first one. Sometimes it says “top” on it or nothing at all and here it also says 200 on the N 200 That means we know it’s the top. This has something to do with how these rings should later turn in the cylinder or on the piston. They have a certain phase on the side. One has the phase above and and the other has the phase below. We take the first ring and go carefully to the engine. Here I have built myself a tool made of plastic. Because it is important, when you push the piston rings in, that they are at a certain depth. The depth is not so extremely important. It is important that the ring is flat in there and not slanted one way or the other, because this falsifies the result. When we install the ring, you have to be a bit careful, because the edges are sharp, we do not want to damage the tread Then I press this one together so that where the ring is open, the hole is not damaged Now press it in carefully with the tool, then I know, it’s in there perfectly I don’t know if you can see it. The gap is very small, We’re about like this now, there’s still a little bit in there We have to go later on about like this, so I know that from experience, we measure the whole thing now with the feeler gauge. Why are we even doing this? The manufacturers deliver the rings, with the specific bore, with the pistons and they are narrower by nature. Why? Because we still have to put it on our game If the game was already too big, we can’t weld on the ring. So it’s too small Depending on the purpose, whether you drive nitro, track day, or road or whatever, you should set the game differently For us, it’s an engine that’s on the road, maybe a little bit on the nordschleife and after our experiences we’ll stop the game right away It is also important to understand, that you have to do this in any case, that is very important. Many then call and ask: How do I do that? or how much should I set? it’s all there, but for that we now make the video to explain, if we wouldn’t do it, the game

would be too small Then the piston ring would eventually collide with the ends and then the bore would wear out too quickly, the ring would wear out and the whole thing would just not explode, but the rings would break. In principle, the engine would break down Now I take the feeler gauge and I have here feeler gauges for the first and second compression ring I’ve already laid it down here like this and sorted it. I always make the first ring at 37 That’s always a bit plus or minus zero you won’t get it exactly right. I make the second ring at 0.28 Because it’s not so heavily loaded, so I don’t need such a big game Sometimes there is the case that the second ring is already larger than 0.28. I’ve had rings before, they were 0.40. There’s nothing you can do. We deburr these and put them Most important is the first ring. That means we go there with our feeler teaching in the small value, we should come to 0.37 I’ll try 0.27 to see if it fits It only goes in halfway That is, I know now, it’s too small I’ve seen it too, I’ve had experience with it, we’ll have to grind it. Then we’ll take it out again, also carefully. So that the one with the ends goes out. This should not damage anything with the sharp edges Then we take our piston ring file. This is basically a rotating disc, we offer the tool for sale, but also for rent. So if you want to borrow it, you can do it Now he has two support points here, you could press the piston ring against it and then work on both sides, but I find it bad. The result is not as good as when I only do one side. So in principle i press only one side against it so that one side presses there We will not edit this side. The problem with editing is, that you could edit it wrong We want the gap to be even and not diagonal and a crater landscape on it. So I just work on one and leave the other as it is In principle, I’ll still be turning around a little bit. You should make sure that it is straight, i.e. lies flat and not at an angle Depending on the pressure and how often you do it, you naturally take more away. Now I’ll blow this off, now we have to get back up here to the workbench. Very important: there is some brake cleaner in here, but you can use a rag. I’ll clean it up now I don’t want that crap in my cylinder Just hold it against the light I look at how the surfaces lie to each other, how the gap is there. We want this to lay flat so that the distance is even. It can happen, that if you edit it wrong, that he looks like this That would be bad, because then he would touch here I only work on one page at a time, this page, we leave it untouched It’s happened to me before, I edited it, that’s when it happened. You can feel with the feeler gauge, if you go in there right away. The feeler gauge must go through completely from front to back So let’s swap seats, over here, and let’s play the same game. Carefully lay it in and as you can see, it opens some more We had .27, let’s try that again, It’s going through now He’s going in there now Now we try the next size. 0,30 That’ll fit too and then you have to have to do some digging. 0.30 It’s tight again, like before If I do the same thing again, I should actually be there Don’t worry if it’s a little too much. Better a little too much than too little. You’re not gonna get it all on this one anyway. If you have too much time, then you can also buy the rings

separately, as a whole kit for one cylinder. You can order more if necessary. Piston ring 1 is finished, short to piston ring 2 again As said before other material If you have to edit it, or edit it at all, that is the question You have to be careful, because if you grind it, the material will go away much faster. So watch out for that Now I’ll show you another important thing and that’s the deburring. I use an oil stone for that, it is a special stone with which you can also sharpen and deburr knives. That’s important, we have to deburr that on all sides so that we don’t pull any calls All sides are then briefly sanded as the girlfriend does her fingernails Turn over like this and deburr this side nicely, the edges break I look at it again later under the magnifying glass to see if it correct, if it looks good Because this is all so small, here again the stacking ring. In principle the edges that you have, so the side away then from the side so away, all knew short sanding. If you don’t do this, it can happen, because the edge here is so sharp, that you pull yourself into the cylinder with it, right at the installation already and they won’t go away The shouted ones will stay forever and we don’t want to shouted, because otherwise the round grinding is gone We don’t want scratches in the paint In principle, that’s about it We can only show, afterwards, how we mount the piston rings. What you need to remember, take out the tool I’ve prepared a flask for that I’m just gonna lightly press this and make sure that the butt’s on top You can take the ring and put the ends in there and then you can feel when you move it back and forth if it’s moving well in there or if it’s stuck somewhere. It even hooks a little bit now because I haven’t really deburred it yet This is also important to check, because when we mount the ring, it should be able to turn on it. If it gets stuck somewhere, that’s bad Squeeze this one apart so I don’t scratch the piston, and bam, it’s in. Then see if it spins nicely again Just take an old piston ring and break it, then you will notice what kind of material it is and then you might know where the limits of the material are The first one is much more difficult There are also tools for this, but I always find them best by hand. It’s where you feel best Then all you have to do is turn the rings like a mercedes star The abutting edges should not lie on top of each other That one there, the first one there, the oil scraper there and that’s it Piston mounting, if we want to mount the pistons now, I don’t use a tension band for that anymore. 82.50 Or did I put this somewhere else? 81,50..84 This is what it looks like for me when I prepare the parts. Then they go into the drawer and then the drawer is closed. …it’s not gonna come up with anything I use teflon bushes for this, which is much better than a tension band The problem is, we want to get the piston into the bore and have to preload the piston rings This is in principle nothing but a funnel, teflon-coated inside The disadvantage is that you have to buy one size for each hole separately This is 83 now. If you have 83.5, you have to buy 83.5 So the only downside Then let’s mount it now, let’s show it shortly I need some more oil I’m putting oil on the can now, so the motto here is: whoever lubricates well, drives well. The more oil, the better Down here that is also clean, that is the contact surface, that is important. then lots of oil on the pistons, the piston rings. This can drip a little now, then I always spread it around a bit

Lubricate the bearing directly, here comes the bush. You have to make sure that you take the right side, now you have to take care that the piston rings do not tilt This has to be done with feeling Now they are pretensioned. We are here at the piston shirt, piston rings don’t look out and now in with it We have already oiled the cylinders Let’s turn down a little bit, all right For this I made the mark, to the steering side one there, again briefly countercheck: nose is here, that means, nose looks to the inlet channel, that is also correct. So now the whole apparatus comes in here. Be careful, below with the oil spray nozzle and with the crankshaft The connecting rod can bump into it somewhere, then it won’t go on Now I’m going to press the box The bushing must rest, there must be no gap between block and bushing. But this is also the case with the tensioning strap Or the piston ring would push itself out and break Just with feeling, bang It’s in In principle, it already was Very briefly as a conclusion, to summarize, measure and adjust the ring clearance Remember, not too big and not too small. Make sure, that the piston rings are correctly positioned on the piston, where is up, where is down? Make sure they rotate correctly, align the mercedes star and then install them with plenty of oil. done