How to Make Twin Motor ATR-72 600 RC Plane Part 4 and Maiden Flight

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How to Make Twin Motor ATR-72 600 RC Plane Part 4 and Maiden Flight

Hello everyone, RC plane builders and pilots It’s me again Julius. In this episode we’re going to maiden our ATR-72 In this episode we will maiden our aircraft but before that we ‘ll watch first some several steps that needs to be done before the flight which are : make battery hatch door battery tray, cables and pushrods for control surfaces, ok let’s go trace battery hatch door according to plans with pen 5 cm from nose section joint make sure it’s on center cut the door carefully with sharp hobby knife with sawing like motion mark which is front side on the back of that battery hatch door cover the edges of the hatch door with masking tape so the paper coating will not accidentally peeled because we will often use the door also do the same for the hole on the fuselage which the door have cut we will make the lock first, we bend wire into L shape with the measurement 1.5 cm and 4 cm make a paper tube by using HVS paper roll mark the position of the lock and paper tube as seen in the video, and cut a hole on it use rubber band as a spring glue tip of the rubber band on the bend with swing thread and CA glue place the rubber tip on the side of the wire so it will not obstruct lock movement pull the rubber band and glue to the paper tube glue the lock on the back of the hatch door with hot glue make slots with 2 piece of wood from ice cream sticks fitting test for battery hatch door attach props inside every corner of the battery hatch to prevent the door fall down inside the hatch paint it with white to blend with the rest trace another hatch door on the fuselage hump according to plans and then cut the hatch for hooking up cables and rubber bands for wing locking because the 2 holes beside the hump are not larger enough when I enlarge the holes, I hit on the center spar inside the hump just detach the spar so it wont obstruct cables the same as battery hatch door cover the edges with masking tape and then attach locking system and slots from ice cream sticks on the back of the hatch door attach props inside every corner of the hatch with cut pieces of ice cream sticks I glue a paper card

with 4 cm width on the edge of the trailing edge as seen in the video it will cover the gap between the wing and the flap when flap on down position you can find this on the real plane it’s just my own setup for covering flap-wing gap the real flap is wider and some of the front part is inside the back of the wing so when the flap down there are no gap between flap and wing hot the knife for detaching tail cap pull out all rudder and elevator servo cables extend the cable with soldering extension cable so the wire can reached to the nose section pull in all that wires inside the fuselage to the nose section with a long rod I use long fiberglass rod we need 3 “Y cables” for servos and a single Y cable for battery power to the ESC all that cable are put inside the fuselage from the hump to the nose section we need Y cable to extend servo cables from both wings also to combine both aileron cables into 1 channel output also for combining both ESCs and flaps power cable for ESC also combined with Y cable for connecting to a single battery The wiring diagram is available on link provided on the description on use plastic control horn that you can buy on aeromodelling hobby shop or make ypurself with hardboard, wood plywood, plastic from simcard or id card attach control horn on flaps and ailerons just make sure the paper covering have to peeled before glueing with hot glue attach decal glue elevator servo on the back of horizontal stabilizer like in the video peeled off the paper covering here I glued the servo on rear part of the stab the correct position is on front part because eventually I have to move it forward make a connector for the separate elevators so it will move together I use the smallest bicycle wheel spoke wire sand and wrap it on each legs with sewing thread and CA glue glue the wire to 2 pieces of wood made out of ice cream stick with CA glue glue the connector to both elevators attach control horn for the elevator last, attach control horn for rudder attach pushrod for rudder and then elevator pushrod we will attaching pushrod for aileron flap pushrod test flap and aileron movement mark the CG position

6 cm from leading edge or front edge of the wing in the video I made mistake for marking the CG it was way off to the back the correct CG is just 6 cm from the front attach main landing gear doors as detail accessories also front LG door covering the tail cap with PVA glue so it can be painted paint it with gray we’re going to make battery tray blank screen, stay tuned guys cut the rough side of velcro as needed and then glue it to the base of battery tray attach 2 walls for holding the battery with 10 mm foam of styrofoam sand side edges so it can be fitted to base of fuselage and then glue the battery tray inside the fuselage glue 2 sticks across the hatch to maintain the shape Taxi test Maiden flight day driving to the flying field about 11 km after all wire and cables are hooked up lock the wing with rubber bands balance the plane on the CG I still use wrong CG, the correct CG is 6 cm from LE not 9 cm you still want to continue this? enough, enough the day was saturday and the maiden flight failed because both motor were not spinning at the same speed, the right one was slower because of that the plane always turn to the right try again tomorrow tried again on monday morning yesterday both ESCs already replaced with new ones unfortunately one of the old ESC is fake, so the speed is different after all ESCs replaced both motor speed are already balanced again, I use the wrong CG 9 cm from LE again, the correct one is 6 cm from LE preflight check, to check control surfaces movement maiden flight oh no, oh no

no, no, no beep beep actually it was very tail heavy, the CG was wrong the aircraft was standing nose up I struggle hard to not panic and try to save the plane from crashing full throttle and push the nose down because it always up and stall finally it can landed safely [relieved] After the CG was corrected to 6 cm it flew well oh no beep slap by the wind (stall : too slow) taking off with flap down pushrod wire for steering was loose causing bend to the wheel shaft you’re a mess! (lol) I couldn’t decide which way to move ok wow cool nice

great that’s maiden flight, I like it from take off and landing are smooth, from 9 times take off and landing if I’m not loose count, it hard landing twice but the rest are smooth I was still adjusting the plane the throttle set up was not right taking off with flap is awesome and then it only need short take off run but on landing the flap gave much brake for the aircraft the flap needs to up a bit for landing I tried once landing with flaps down but it went too slow, I was afraid and abort landing and go around and land with flap up, and it was very smooth landing in all flight I use a single battery Lipo 3S 2200mah and Li-ion 3000mah just one time I tried this 3S 4500 mah it can lift it and gave much power better flight with this because the battery is still in good condition compare to these you can use single battery 3-4 minutes flight, or this one 6 minutes ok now the down side the down side is the first one is the wing, I mistakenly adjust the paper tube so the LE on right wing is higher than the left one twisted the aircraft always tend to roll the the right so I have to trim all the way to the full left but it still can fly so be careful when assembly the wing don’t twist the wing both have to balanced on front and rear it will be twisted if it only slightly twist it can be trimmed but if the angle is big it will dangerous to fly the second one the landing gear I still haven’t got the right contructions the rigid constructions for rather heavy aircraft like this umm on every landing the wheel shaft is always twisted because the wrong constructions for the shaft and the shaft hole on the wheel are loose, it makes the wheel turn but itself and twist its shaft on landing but after it landed, the shaft can always be corrected but it will twist again on the next landing ok that’s all now we’re going to talk about the next project I already prepared for days to make Phantom’s old cousin which is F-8 Crusader but I think it will need many a few parts so for now on I wanted to make a simple model that will finish in a week I wanted every 2 big project like ATR will be inserted by a simple model in between the projects The next simple model will be Cessna 172 after Cessna 172 will be the next big project, ok see you on the next episode