FUJIFILM X100V SETTINGS Guide | Full Setup

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FUJIFILM X100V SETTINGS Guide | Full Setup

So you want to know what the best settings are for the Fujifilm X100V? What’s up guys @reggiebphoto here, and welcome back to the channel. So for those of you who are new my name is Reggie Ballesteros and I’m a wedding photographer based in the San Francisco Bay Area. In this video I’m gonna go over the best settings for the Fujifilm X100V OK, so I’m gonna level with you – there are no best settings for this camera or for any camera in general. The truth is in the world of photography there is no best anything each photographer has a different approach to their craft so the settings that are the best for me are not necessarily gonna be what’s best for you would that set in this video I’m gonna go over how I personally set up my fujifilm X100V so I use this camera for a wide range of different type of situations including professional wedding photography portrait photography travel photography and of course documenting my family day-to-day I’m hoping that by sharing my settings for this camera and explaining exactly why I picked them will help you figure out what settings are gonna work best for you feel free to use my settings as a starting point but always do your own experimentation and test to see what setup will actually work best for you and your working style alright so first things first I’m gonna hold display back and turn the camera on so we can verify it what firmware I am on with the fujifilm X100V and that is version 1.0 all right so turning it back on I’m going to navigate and reset all my settings so that we can stay on the same page as each other okay so I’m going to reset the camera right here okay so down that we have all the default settings we’re gonna start off right from the beginning and for image size I personally pick small 3 by 2 so the main reason why I use the 3 by 2 in the small setting is because I use the JPEGs for my camera for setting to my phone for Instagram stories but I personally shoot in RAW all the time so I set this to fine plus raw this lets me send a JPEG to my phone I need to and still have the raw for editing in Lightroom later on and for the raw recording I’m gonna set this to lossless compressed as this save some file space on my memory card but doesn’t really sacrifice anything as far as quality goes so my film simulation of choice is classic Chrome and that’s what I’m gonna set up right here and I’m gonna leave the grain effect offer my personal film simulation setting so I actually like to use color chroma effect and turn that to weak this basically increases the contrast and some of the color saturation of the image for a color chrome effects blue I’m going to turn that off and for white balance I’m going to leave that to auto but for color chrome it does tend to have a little bit of a washed out cooler tone so I like to employ a white balance shift of negative 3 for the blues and 3 for the red this gives a little bit more warmth to the skin tone as far as I never grain shows I always leave this at 100% because I’m shooting in RAW and for the tone curve I basically set this so that what I see in my camera is going to be the same that shows up on my iPhone when I transfer it over and I’ve come up with that being +1 for the highlights and +1 for the shadows and the rest of the image quality settings I set to color at zero sharpness at zero noise reduction at zero and clarity at zero I leave long exposure noise reduction on on and I leave the color space on srgb a lot of people think that you should be setting this to Adobe RGB but this only affects the JPEG image and if you’re gonna send the JPEG images over to your phone then you should leave it at srgb or else you’ll notice a color ship especially in the Reds when you transfer it to your phone so pixel mapping I don’t mess with as this is more for hot pixels and now we’re gonna go to editing my custom settings so here are the four custom settings that I personally use the first one is a warm version of classic Chrome the second is the standard version of classic chrome the third is my black-and-white preset based on a gross and my last is a raw custom setting that is based on negative standard for a very flat profile which has a very accurate histogram so going into that the warm is basically what I already showed you so we’re going to go into the neutral and show you what I have there basically for this one I have classic chrome I have everything else the same so great effect off color chrome effect on week color Chrome FX blue on/off and I have the white balance to auto with no color shift and I have the same thing for dynamic ranges at 100% and they have D range priority on off with the highlight at +1 shadow at +1 color at zero sharpness at zero noise reduction and zero clarity at zero and so on as far as

my black and white settings go I use a gross again and I have that set to a gross with no monochromatic color shifts at all I leave the great effect at weak and small I have the color chrome effect off the color chrome FX blue on off the white balance is on auto dynamic range is on 100% again the range of priority is off and I do have the tone curve to +1 on these shadows sharpness is at zero noise reduction is at zero clarity is at zero and the last one is my raw custom setting which is basically geared toward having a very flat profile just for raw purposes and has a very accurate histogram so I have that the film simulation on pro- standard great effect off color chrome effect off color chrome FX blue off white balances on auto dynamic range is 100% D range priorities on/off and for the tone curve I have this at negative two on the highlights and shadows at zero this gives me a very accurate highlight Ordnung as well as a very conservative shadow profile to make sure that i don’t understant color is at zero sharp tests at zero noise reduction is at zero and clarity is at zero all right so now we get on to the autofocus settings and focus area is basically just how you pick the focus point so we’re gonna move on to a fo and I like to set this to all basically what all does is lets you cycle through all the different auto focus types by just scrolling through the wheel rather than having to change the mode so for AF see custom settings I typically have this on set to for most situations the only other time is if I’m taking pictures of my kids I set it to set five which is for very unpredictable moving subjects but for now we’re gonna leave it at set to our leave store AF mode by orientation on/off I have the AF point display for zone focus modes on and on and I leave the number of focus points at 425 because I like to have as many points to select from I use pre AF on/off and I suggest you leave pre AF on/off if you want to save battery life as if you leave it on it’s going to be looking for focus even when you’re not pressing down the shutter I leave the AF illuminator on/off and for any time that you use face and eye detection I leave that on I ought oh so for the auto focus man focus override I leave that on/off and for the manual focus assist I’m gonna set that to peak highlight and I’d like to have it on red hi alright moving on I have a focus check on off and I have interlocked the spot and auto exposure and focus area on off so for the instant AF setting I leave that on auto focus single and I have the depth of field scale to pixel alright so the release and focused priority I leave the auto focus single on focus priority because I want to make sure that always in focus before I shoot and then for the fast action for auto focus continuous I leave that on release priority as I want to make sure that they capture moments and no lag when I’m taking the photo as far as touchscreen modes I leave this usually on area as I just want to select the area and still have the half press be the autofocus acquisition and then here’s the corrected AF frame I’m not quite sure what this is I think it’s for the ouvea but I leave that on off for now so sports find the remote I leave that on/off self timer is on off at this point save self timer settings I’ll leave that on on so that when I do set it will remember so for interval timer settings I like to leave this at zero minutes and one second and right when I go over here I like to leave that right at infinity and then we’re going to just start it up just to save that I like to leave it there that way I can just let it go as long as I want to and then just cancel it to stop we also have interval timer shooting exposure smoothing on on I think this is a new feature for the X 100 V so now onto auto exposure bracketing I like to have this to give me seven frames total at one exposure stop each so it’s going to be three frames overexposed and three frames underexposed and if you leave this on continuous so I like to leave this on underexposed first correctly exposed and then overexposed and I’ll quickly demonstrate that for you what that looks like which is cool is because it does a continuous burst when it does that so for film simulation bracketing I like to set this at classic Chrome for the first

one classic negative for the second one and a gross for the last one unfocused bracket setting I don’t change anything on that because I don’t really use that for multiple exposure I change this based on the type of photo that I’m taking at this point I’m going to use additive and for the shadow type I typically leave this at mechanical shutter so as of right now I have the flicker reduction on/off but if I do go into any type of settings with indoor artificial lighting sometimes I will turn this on so for the ISO Auto setting I’m going to set up the first one and I like to have this at 160 with a top ISO of 6400 and I like to have my minimum shutter speed at 1 over one sixtieth for the second one I’m going to do the same thing except I’m going to have this with a higher ISO limit at one over one sixtieth and this last auto ISO setting I’m going to set it for something when I need maximum low-light capability and that’s gonna be one over a thirtieth of a second to do the one over focal length rule so I don’t have the convergence lens so that’s going to be on off and the ND filter I currently have on off and then we’re gonna move over to the next thing which is the flash so currently I have the flash on off for now and the TTL mode is on last flash they have the built-in flash on on just in case I need to use it alright so onto the movie mode my default movie setting is at 4 K 16 by 9 and I like to have this at twenty three point nine eight and leave it that at 100 megabit per second alright now that way you got that setup I like to set this also to classic Chrome as well as it is very nice for minimal color grading and how the white balance set to auto but I do manually set this if I’m doing any type of studio shooting so the dynamic range I leave at a hundred percent and then for the highlights and shadows I leave these at negative two highlights and negative two shadows to have an ultra flat profile for color grading in post and here I also have the color set to negative four and the reason why I leave these things very flat and desaturate it is because video actually bakes in the color and tones into the video so I like to be able to add contrast and saturation in post rather than having to subtract it in post so I leave sharpness at zero and noise reduction at zero I have the interframe noise reduction on zero and f log recording is also at zero so the focus area is how you pick the focus point and I like to leave this on area as I like to manually select where I’m going to do focusing as far as the auto focus custom settings go I leave this at the default at +2 sensitivity and AF speed at zero and the face and eye detection again if I do use it it’s gonna be on auto so for the manual focus assist again leave this on red hi and I leave focus check on on this is basically when you enable manual focus it’s gonna punch in a little bit and the HDMI output info display really depends on what I’m doing if I’m capturing my EVF I will leave that on on if I’m using a out of most recorder or anything like that I’m going to use it on off if it’s for creative footage and here I leave this at the default as well as the HD output as also on default and the 4k HDMI standby quality is at 4k I leave the HDMI record control on on as well so for zebra settings I like to leave this on and it really doesn’t matter if you choose right or left and I like to leave this at 95% and on the audio settings I only have the mic level limiter and I turn everything else off and for the mic remote release I leave this at microphone because I don’t typically use a remote release in the microphone port timecode settings I don’t change and the tally light I have just on the solid rear light on and I leave the movie silent control on on because I like to have the exposure settings for movie mode decoupled from the still shooting settings all right on to the user settings we’re gonna set the date here as twenty twenty three twenty nine eleven forty alright and the time difference I like to leave this on home as I when I go traveling I don’t want the photos to be out of order language is that English and then the my menu setting I’m gonna add these items later so for this sound in the flash we’re going to leave this on on this basically lets the flash be able to turn on we’re gonna change the sound in a different area now we’re going to go over to the sound settings and I’m gonna first thing

gonna do is turn off the shutter volume to off this makes it a lot more silent than the previous that I had alright so now we’re going to go in the sound some things we’re gonna finish that right there and now we’re gonna go into the EVF settings so for the View mode I’m gonna have the both the shooting and the playback on the I sensor and I have the EVF brightness at negative one and the EVF color I also like to leave at zero color adjustment is at zero and LCD brightness I like to have that at negative one the reason why I do this is because I find that negative one gives the closest brightness level to a mobile phone or an iPhone set at 75 percent brightness which is typically what I have my screen at so LCD colors at zero LCD image adjustments at zero image display I like to have that 0.5 seconds I have auto rotate display on on and preview exposure in mana mode I like to have that as well natural light view I leave that on/off and flaming guideline I like to have this at grid 24 as this is the only grid that has a center both horizontal and vertical line right so I have auto rotate playback on/off as I like to see the vertical photos in full-screen still I have the focus scale units on feet and then I have the OVF image display on full so as far as they display custom settings go for the EVF I pretty much have everything checked except for the framing guideline the auto focus distance indicator and the exposure compensation digit everything else I like to have on all right and then for the EVF LCD I have the framing guideline on electronic level on I leave the AF distance indicator on/off I have the histogram on and the live view highlight alert on these are very important for getting accurate exposures and then I just leave the exposure compensation digit off I like to have the framing outline on as well and just to show you basically what the highlight warning looks like that will show you when your highlights are blown out or not alright so back to these settings I usually leave the large indicators on/off on both things they don’t really turn that on in general and then I have the information contrast adjustments to standard so now on to the button and dial settings which is really the fun stuff so I have the focus lever or setting on on and I have the Edit quick menu setting to 16 and here are my 16 slots that I use this basically custom setting out of the focus mode dynamic range white balance and then here I like to set this to the ND filter image size image quality film simulation highlight shadow colour sharpness timer face detection I have the flash here and the brightness and I have the Q menu set to the black background it’s a next up we’re gonna do the function button settings which is basically the way that you can personally customize your camera to be how you want it so I personally have the function 1 set 2 previews your white balance in mana mode on on and this is the top one right here and I have the function button in the front of the lever to be face and eye detection I like to use the swipe touch settings because I don’t have the d-pad anymore so I have the top one set to performance swipe left set to white balance and I have the right one set to custom settings and the swipe down set to electronic level and then for the auto exposure lock and auto focus lock I set that to histogram this gives you a bigger histogram to look at which is displayed right there picking this back up and then I have the rear dial set to focus check and the selector set to ND and the Cuban set to Q so the command dial settings I have this set to f-stop ISO and none and I have the rear one set to shutter speed the cool thing is if you set the ISO dial to C and the shutter speed dial to T you can control the shutter speed with the rear wheel all the way and the ISO with the front wheel all the way so coming back here we’re gonna go to the

shutter AF is on on on both AFS and AF C and the shutter IE is also an on for both shoot without card I like to leave that on off so that my camera doesn’t shoot without an SD card on it in focus ring is set to clockwise and the focus ring operation is on non linear and for the control ring setting I set that to the digital teleconverter the auto white balance and the AEA F locks I set to switch which is a toggle on and off and the aperture ring setting I have a two auto as far as the touch screen settings go I leave the touch screen setting on on double tap is on/off and I have the swipe touch functions on on as again I do miss the d-pad so I have the touch screen setting for playback on on and for the EVF OVF touch screen area I have this on right side only that way if I put my nose the camera right here it doesn’t enable the touch screen so now going to the power management we have the two-minute default with the performance at to boost and the EVF performance set to brightness priority and here you can change the save data settings however you like and change the copyright and author information however for your name and now we go on to the Bluetooth settings which I have paired to my phone I have the Bluetooth on and the auto image trance are off as well as the smart phone sync settings off as I don’t like it changing the cameras time based on my phone and the PC connection mode I set to the USB rock converters slash backup restore settings and the USB power supply set to on and for the general settings I like to leave the basically the resize for three megabytes to off as I like to dictate the file size of anything transferred my phone to the JPEG settings which I have two JPEGs small and now that pretty much completes my set up for my fujifilm x100t if this video was helpful be sure to give it a like and let me know down in the comments below if you have any questions about a particular setting or my overall setup in general and if you want to save some time I’ve uploaded my configuration file for all the settings shown in this video if you like to use Fuji films X acquire software’s restore camera settings feature to duplicate my setup all you got to do is click the link below fill out the form and you’ll get an email with a link to download the setting configuration file as always please be sure to subscribe if you haven’t already as I make a new Fuji film or photography video every week and if that’s too long for you go ahead and follow me on instagram at a try giri photo for new tips tricks and tutorials throughout the week all right that’s it for me remember to get out go shoot and I’ll catch you guys in the next one