HOW TO WETSAND AND POLISH OXIDATION OUT OF A BOAT

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HOW TO WETSAND AND POLISH OXIDATION OUT OF A BOAT

hey everyone Justin Russell with Russell marine products calm today we’re going to go over a little bit on how to wet sand and polish your boat now a little backstory on this boat this is a 1993 champion 18 foot and this is an all metal flake boat meaning it’ll have metal flake with a clear coat on top and this is important to know especially when it comes to the wet sanding and polishing stage because you can sand too far and what will happen is you’ll turn this metal flake a little bit silver so in this process if you’re working on your own boat and you happen to notice that some of the darker metal flake may be turning silver or the red turning silver you’ve sanded too far and there’s not really anything you can do to bring that back besides respraying the metal flake and re-clear coating it but now boats are different than automotive so please don’t try to do this on your vehicle because this process is going to be much different the gel coat application is actually seven times thicker than what your automotive is and automotive is based clear now metal flake boats are metal flake with a clear coat on top similar to cars based clear but your solid colors like your solid whites yellows Browns blacks those are going to be more similar to like a single stage paint is on a vehicle which will be just solid color so when you sand on a black boat that’s a solid black your actual water that you’re sanding with will start to turn black that’s okay don’t freak out about that but today to get started all we’re going to use is I’ve got some water this is not glass cleaner this is actually water with just a very very small amount of Dawn dish soap in that’s just to help with the sanding process to make it glide a little bit better so it doesn’t begin and this boat isn’t too terribly bad in terms of being oxidized and needing to be wet sanded and polished so I’m going to start with 1200 grit sandpaper now this is for a dual action sander I’m not going to be using any of the actual equipment today we’re going to be doing this section by hand to show you a before and after so we’ve got a tape line here I will be sanding and polishing back on this area so once we get everything done I can lift the tape and actually show you what the old original was versus the actual wet sanded and polished part so you can see the before and after so I’ve got a very soft sponge here this is just actually a piece of packing material that happen to come in a engine crate that we had and again water with some Dawn dish soap I’m just going to spray the area down we’ve already cleaned it with Windex and wiped it with a rag and next we’re just going to put our sandpaper down and I’m just going to keep sanding on this section here and what I’m looking for is if it may be a little difficult to see in the camera but it’s actually kind of a little bit of brown water we’ve got out of here what I’m looking for is to sand it enough to where it’s actually going to turn white which means I’m down to the actual clear gel coat itself so that means I have all the oxidation out of here and keep adding water as necessary again starting with 1200 grit next we’re going to jump up to 2,000 and finally I’m going to do 3000 I like to do 3000 on darker colors your blacks your dark blues your solid colors and I really like to do it on any time we’re working with metal flake it just helps everything to be a lot smoother as you can see here we’ve got brown water which is good that’s what we’re trying to take out so have patience it takes a long time to do a whole boat so make sure you guys plan accordingly a lot of times it’ll take over a weekend to get a boat completely done especially if you’re doing it by yourself I’m actually going to go grab a rag to wipe that off I can still feel the grittiness in it and still see it so we’re going to keep standing with 1200 here and this sandpaper I get locally from O’Reilly I believe autozone carries it you can probably find it online and Amazon as well too but everything will go over with here while we’re doing this today we will provide part numbers for and I’ll also if we get it all locally here at our O’Reilly a lot of times if they don’t have it on the Shelf you can ask for it they have it in the back or they can normally get it in free within a day or so we go through a lot of this stuff so our local O’Reilly actually stops all this stuff specifically for us all right now I’m actually starting to get some whiteness to show up I still got some yellow and brown coming in here

while I’m sanding so we’re still going to keep sanding with twelve twelve hundred so I’m starting to get more of that whiteness which is what we want and you’ll notice too as we continue on just wet sanding even just standing with 1200 you’re going to start noticing it to actually shine more and to look better than the previous section that was oxidized so we’re going to keep sanding till we get rid of that Brown we’re almost ready to start 2000 grit here so got some grit here to it that I want to try to eliminate alright now we’re ready to start using 2000 this is 3m mm wet or dry sandpaper don’t need a whole sheet of it will actually just tear your section off again using the foam pad that we have here same exact procedure as 1200 spray it spray a little bit on the sandpaper just keep on sannen and this is a lot by feel when you start getting up and the higher grits of sandpaper way more than it is actually a visual so what we’re going to be doing here is trying to feel where this thing really starts to glide easily and once it gets gliding a lot easier that’s how we kind of know we have the smoothness that we want and also we’ve removed the 1200 grit scratches and that’s what we’re basically trying to do now is trying to remove the 1200 grit scratches out of here so you can see it’s a very tedious process again guys make sure you have patience make sure you’re ready to spend some time working on it a lot of guys do this in the winter time labor of love it’s a good way if you have cabin fever to get you back ready to go fishing again or boating if you’re not doing it bass those right next comes the compounding or buffing stage and I’m going to use it again 3m product now we’re not sponsored by three amethyst what we can get locally and what works well this is the high high gloss gel coat compound part number is zero six zero to five it comes in like a paint gallon bucket it is expensive you can get multiple boats out of one gallon of this stuff but it works really really well and it’s specifically formulated for gel coat so I like to use a little chip brush and we just kind of dab it in here now we’re actually going to apply it to the sanded portion of the boat okay so get some of this and we’re just going to lather it on here I’m using a rotary buffer with a white wool pad now again this is for compounding buffing whatever you want to call it I’ll be honest I’m cheap I use cheap buffers this one’s from Harbor Freight I think it’s like 40 bucks and we do a lot of buffing and a lot of polishing and these things actually last a really good long time so I don’t really think there’s any need to go out and spend $300 on a buffer or a polisher these things work awesome we get our pads again from O’Reilly’s where we get our compounds and stuff and what I do is I start it slow to kind of work the compound into the area that we’re polishing and then we’re going to speed it up from there so I always start out at one speed it up to three or four and I may even finish at five just when we’re starting to run out of compound and stuff when it gets heated up so all right we just got done compounding buffing whichever you want to call it now I’m using a 3m perfected or known as number two for you automotive guys and part number is zero six zero six four now I’m going to be using the same rotary buffer that we already did but I’m using a black finesse it foam pad some of you guys like to call it a waffle pad I’m going to apply the compound directly onto the boat we’ve got a little rag here that I’m going to use to move it around then we’re going to actually begin what’s called polishing now with our waffle foam pad the key to this is you always want it on low speed this is going to help take out some of the swirl marks that would have been put in there by the wool pad and this is actually going to help polish and you really start to see the shine come with this you don’t always have to I like to polish it twice I like to always make sure we go over everything really really well especially on the polishing stage

one thing you will want to be careful of especially when you’re buffing watch clip cords or cleats will actually take this off when we finish the rest of the boat that can grab the buffer and it’ll gang some stuff or it’ll grab a cable throw it around it actually hurts it’s kind of funny to watch unless you’re the guy that it happens to but also beware the rub rail too some guys will actually put some of this tape all the way around on the rub rail I just like to be very cautious of the rub rail haven’t really messed one up yet so again just some things to be cautious of because you can mess some stuff up doing this as well alright last step we’re going to be doing is actually adding wax now this is a McGuire’s cleaner wax or carnauba wax you want to get something that has a lot of UV inhibitor in it this is really good stuff I kind of prefer the paste wax myself I think it goes further the stuff that’s kind of liquid that comes in the bottle I feel like a lot of your buffing pads may absorb too much of it and you actually lose a lot of material and waste money by actually having it in the pad or the rag or the microfiber whatever using it just fly so I again like to use paste wax in every possible I think it just goes on better and works it’s kind of work some of that around I like to use circle motions some people can put it on straight all we’re looking to do is to move it around on that section that we just got done polishing we’ll let it set up and haze really really well then we’ll take a clean microfiber cloth to remove the haze portion of wax then we’ll pull our tape line here and see what we got the key to this stuff is you can always reefs and rebuff repolish once you go through too far though you can’t go back without actually respring the metal flake which on this boat I don’t even know on the edge of this boat if you could find that same color metal flake so get that real good mixed in there now we’re going to let it haze up and as soon as it gets done hazing up we’ll take our cloth remove the wax and then we’ll pull the tape line so you can see the before and after now that wax is finally hazed up it’s time to remove it so we’re going to take our microfiber cloth and remove the wax and see the shine beneath so check it out now we’re going to remove the tape we’re going to show you the oxidized section of the boat versus the wet sanded and polished side sections of the boat and there is our difference heck of a difference now on to the rest of the boat thanks for watching this video check us out Russell marine products calm you