JCB Sideshift Stabilizer Rebuild #JCB #JCB2CX #Backhoe
I have a 2004 JCB 212s or 2 CX in Europe. I’m going to go over the stabilizer rebuild that I did. The reason why I need to rebuild these is there’s wear pads. You can see the new ones in here: one there, one over there, and one there, one on the other side. So four at the top as well as there’s four at the bottom. Two internal and these two adjustable ones here. Then there’s two internal ones that go on the outer leg. One like this, and one like that. What happens is if you don’t adjust these or these other ones where too much the inner leg can move around a lot. What will happen is the hydraulic ram will then basically bend because the leg isn’t held. Hydraulic cylinder will start to leak because you bent your rod and that’s what happened to me So anyway I’ll just cover a few things that I did not cover in the rest of the video So the first thing you have to do is you lower this leg down slightly and then there’ll be a 10 millimeter by 90 millimeter bolt that holds the lower pin on. This pin holds the foot to the leg. So the first thing to do is remove this bolt Then the next thing is to remove the pin that holds this on and that’s what I’ll cover in the next part of the video. After you do that you have removed the top pin, undo the hydraulic lines and then lift the whole assembly out up through the outer leg Just rebuilding the whole stabilizer system. Here I’ve got the wear pads out They were really really rusted in there, took lots of heat and a big 8 foot breaker bar to get them to come out Now I’ll got to push this lower pin through so I can get the foot pad off Because the RAM has to lift out through the top, that’s the only way it can come out. I’ve got my 20-ton bench mount shop press here stuck underneath it Jury-rigged up. I’m just about to crank down the pressure here and see I can get that pin to come out. If not I’ll have to apply some heat while pushing on it with the press 15 tons There it is – Out
After a lot of heat and a lot of hammering the pin is finally out of this top one. I had this piece of tin in there to help reflect some of the heat away from the lines. I did leave them connected. I did start off with them disconnected and there was just too much fluid dripping out every time you hit it with the hammer. So some fluid would squirt out and then potentially catch on fire, so it’s best to leave those hooked up while you pound out the pins. Here it is It was a two-person job, one to hold torch and one to hammer. Otherwise I tried it by myself, and but time I shut off the torch and started hammering it just cooled too much. As you can see it’s a pretty big piece you have to heat up. You have to get it cherry red, pretty much this whole side, and you can only get the torch in here. If you were to do it on this side you’d be too close to these pipes. So you’re heating from here, which is the thickest part of the the top of the cylinder. I used Harris #2 rosebud tip on torch, and it was a good 15 minutes of constant heat before you get any movement of the pin. Of course if you are not such a wimp like I am, you may be able to hit it harder and not have to put in so much heat. Now it’s time to lift these out and get them off to be rebuilt Show you a problem I just found
Look here how the pin fits, it’s just long enough so it just sits on the inside of the holes and the leg. Now what’s happening with this one you can see it’s bent out there a bit. This may have happened while I was hammering out the pin or pushing out the pin or just from normal wear and tear. So if I were to take this pin out. It is now barely resting in there. That’s all that captures this leg to the inner leg that moves up and down with this stabilizer. So I’m going heat it up and pound it back in So after pounding this one straight I noticed looking in that this one’s all wallowed out in here. It’s all wallet out. Short of cutting out and welding in a new bung or something I’m going to have to run a weld bead around here to build it up a bit Here it is after bidding grinding Not perfect but give the pin something to grab on to versus how it started to wallow out. So I think that should be good enough. Here’s the pins and new wear pads. This example of what the old pin before it was cleaned up and the pin cleaned up so it will actually go back in to the cylinder. These are the new lower pads, these are the ones that you adjust. Here’s the one that came out These green ones here go on the leg There’s four of those at the top of the leg, these bottom ones go inside the leg on the machine at the bottom, there’s two of those so These green ones go right in here on the leg So that’s the set from our friends in India. The whole set to do a leg was I think around $65 or $80 USD versus the price quoted me for just this one pad at the dealer was a $157 Canadian. Then they wanted like $50 apiece for these wear pads. So India it is. Here it is cleaned
up, this pad threads in there You can see the threads are fairly well pitted there, where they’ve been exposed We’ll walk around the other side where I haven’t cleaned them up yet and you can see what they look like Good example of the rust built up in there, especially in these threads back in here Back in here where they’re exposed to the elements all the time Kind of a dumb design because there’s no way to grease these threads. To keep the rust from building up in there I’m taking some silicone here, a couple dabs on before I install them. Now I’ll let that set over night. So they don’t fall out on me when I’m trying to put them in Because they kind of fit a bit loose in here versus the factory ones. That have a nice tight fit. I’ll put a little dab of silicone here on all of them to hold them in. So I got the truck all set up with the crane. To put the stabilizer legs back in and my neighbor came over to see what I was doing and said let’s just lift them in. So with two people it’s not bad You can see the see the wear pads their and the inner leg What we did is place this jack at the bottom, just at the corner to catch the leg in case it came down too far What we had to do was the leg came all the way down and then hung up on the two inner pads. That’s what pry bars were for. So we’re able to just get in there and pry it away from those inner wear pads. Then it it’s pretty tight in there so we had to hit it down with the hammer but I’m sure that they will wear eventually. My backhoe has been parked here so long, I’ll show you the family that’s moved in. (Robin eggs) So now I I’ve got it fixed I can’t really move it Just finish up the job, putting on the feet and the lower wear pads, the adjustable ones The job is done, feet are on and the wear pads are in It’s nice to have this done now. I just have to wait for the Robins to hatch
One thing I did is to add these grease fittings. I’m not sure why there weren’t any from the factory, but there’s a hole there, but never any grease fitting there on either side. So I just tapped it for a regular grease fitting and that way hopefully these will won’t get seized in there like last time Let’s go over the cost here. I had the two hydraulic cylinders rebuilt and they told me that the rods were bent. Which seems totally plausible. They had to make new rods, which was not cheap, and you can see there with tax just under $1900 dollars Canadian Then another I think was $80 u.s. aside, I’ll call that one $110 dollars Canadian aside for the wear pads. Total we’ll call it $2100 CAD ($1600USD) for this job I had the hydraulic cylinders rebuilt by Hydrauli-Chrome here in Ottawa. Because that’s all they do If you want to avoid costly repair make sure you get to those wear pads before you bend the rods in the stabilizer Wait we are with our guest speaker, we’ve got Mike from next door He’s been here for 50 years he’s known Greg for the very beginning Mike – well that’s what happens when you have low maintenance Chris – too much youtubing, Mike – now this video is to show you what not to do! Greg’s got a new video so glad I subscribe!