400Watt Motorbike Alternator Hack For Wind & Water Turbines

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400Watt Motorbike Alternator Hack For Wind & Water Turbines

So this is just a quick video on a couple of methods for attaching a motorbike alternator onto a bicycle wheel hub. Motorbike alternators are reasonably good for use with wind and water turbines, they’ll do a reasonable amount of power, reasonably good voltage per rpm The very good thing about them is that they’re very available in a lot of parts of the world, so pretty much anywhere you can get one of these The main drawback is that they don’t come with bearings. Like the- when you take them off the bike or the scooter or the tuk-tuk, or like, or whatever, they’re basically going to be like a rotor and a stator separate. So you’ll need to mount them to each other in some way that they can spin easily and happily, and the best way I’ve found for that is just using a bicycle wheel hub These will do, I mean about two, three, four hundred watts maximum output and about 15 volts AC per 1000 rpm, which is okay. It’s better than most options. I can’t think of a better option or even really a second option in places where you’re not going to find mass produced like consumer grade items You will need to gear them up for vertical axis wind turbines by a factor of about ten. For horizontal axis, two or three. For hydro turbines though they should be able to direct drive, they should be able to do 12 volt battery charge voltage coupled onto a pelton wheel, I’m going to be putting one on my siphon turbine design. So as it is when you take this off a motorbike you’ll have the stator with the coils, and you’ll have the rotor with the magnets, and they won’t- they’re not mounted on each other. So they’ll need to be put on a bearing in order to well, you know, for obvious reasons. So it’s just a matter of chucking the stator onto the front of that, the hub, and then chucking the rotor onto the axle, and then that will then spin freely So you’ll want a wheel which is not a quick release, you’ll want a solid axle about 10 millimeters, that’s standard So the first thing you’ll want to do is just cut your bike wheel hub out of the wheel. You can use tin snips, you can use side cutters, an angle grinder, bolt cutters, basically anything which will just go through these spokes Doesn’t take much. You’ll want to cut them fairly close down towards the base, it just makes it easier to get the little bits out afterwards And you’ll end up with that, and then just take all of these little guys out of there So then you’re going to want to open this up, give it a bit of a clean and grease if it needs it, and also most importantly wind this axle on one side out, basically as far as it’ll go because it’ll give you your room to attach this guy on here. So for that you will want to have a bike cone spanner That’s to fit into the little cone nuts that are here Any sort of like 15 or 13 millimeter spanner, which is really thin, it’ll need to be like super thin down there will go on there but nothing else will, so you will need, like, that That’s just a matter of chucking spanner to cone nut, another spanner onto the lock nut, and just levering that off Be careful when you open this up, because if the bearings are not encapsulated, if they’re just sort of in there and they don’t have like a housing around them then they can fall out and you do not want to hear the sound of a dozen little ball bearings falling to the ground and never being found again This wheel is fairly clean and well greased so if this was full of gunk you’d want to take everything apart put it out

safely and then just go around with some toilet paper wipe down the surfaces, reapply some grease I get it so it’s a little bit loose, a little bit wobbly and then just tighten these outer nuts together until it’s sort of nice runs smooth doesn’t wobble But so then you’ve got that; bike wheel hub with all the thread on one side. You’ll then want to mount your stator, this guy, on to here Each of the, each stator is different, they’ll have like different holes available, different like number of poles and stuff, this one has two opposing holes. So basically just going to drill out two opposite side holes that the spokes were in, and putting in these m5 bolts. I’m using socket head bolts because the head fits a bit easier on here, and it’s also just what I have available, but pretty much anything there will work. They can also be m3, m4 bolts. You might, as in this case want to cut out a bit just where it’s hitting on this, uh, on the earth tag there And then just hacksaw or angle grinder or file or anything will do it And then because this is just an aluminium hub you can pretty much just snap these bits off basically And now that just slots directly onto there So the head fits fairly nicely inside there Using nylocks, lock nuts So the stator needs to be very nicely centered on the hub, but that’s fairly easy to do because if your bolts are symmetrical then you kind of, it should just pull it to center essentially. If the holes here are not quite so nicely symmetrical then you might need to like adjust the amount of like pull that you put on your bolts. Again this is kind of easy to get right and hard to get wrong but you do want this nice and, nice and good because the tolerances in here are like fairly tight once this is spinning, you really obviously don’t want it rubbing anywhere so just take a second to get things nice and centered. But so that there now is the stator mounted on the bike wheel So I like to use one of these kind of nuts. So like, the lock nut that was on it was that, fairly typical kind of locknut, you can sort of see the same on the other side there. But on the outside of the forks on the bike they usually lock it off with one of these guys. I like to put that on that side there because the inside, sort of like um, hub of the rotor is slightly conical and usually is a good size that it nicely fits onto that nut there, and basically centers itself So as you like wind that on there it’ll naturally find its way to center. It will also to an extent with these lock nuts just because they’re slightly domed and the same sort of effect will happen, but I mean, your wheel is almost certainly going

to have one or two of these on it anyway I find it sort of fits a bit nicer and just sort of sits a bit nicer. So now when we place the rotor onto here it’ll sit nicely onto that nut and all the clearances around here should be, should be good if this is centered, and it should work out that the up down of this should work out as well. If not, if this is sitting too high or too low and your coils aren’t quite in the, in the middle there you can pack out that with with washers, or use a thinner nut if it’s too far out already. But it should basically just sit there nicely. And then it’s just a matter of chucking some washers onto the back here Chuck another lock nut on But you want to get that nut on like basically as tight as you can get it because otherwise that might slip. You can maybe like try keying this but if you get it like good and tight it should be it, shouldn’t slip. And so then you can see that that is now spinning nicely in there not rubbing on anything, nicely centered, and that’s it. That’s now mounted on there in such a way that you can now use this as an alternator in a turbine. So then the obvious question is how do you then spin your rotor, how do you attach this to like your wind turbine or your water turbine or whatever you’re plugging it into. Probably the best way, depending on your setup, is just to attach an automotive pulley to it. So this is just off the alternator of a car, which I’ve also got a two and a half meter loop longitudinally grooved belt So the belt will attach around the turbine and then attach to the pulley here, and then as that turns it turns the rotor. So you’ll want to mount your rotor with quite a bit of thread off the other side, where you’re going to be attaching the pulley. Luckily, I’m not sure if this is standard but with mine one of these standard 10mm bike nuts which fit a 15mm spanner happen to nest pretty much perfectly in there in that, the bottom hole, which means that that’ll center that really nicely. So it’s just a matter of winding that nut on to the back end of your thread So here I’ve obviously taken the sprocket set off this wheel coz it would just get in the way otherwise Getting that pretty good and tight And then just mounting that on there and locking it down with another nut If you have enough thread off this end you can mount this facing down, and that will then sort of like just shift the force, the lever force of the belt just a little bit closer into the bearing which which can be nice depending how much force you’re putting through this. It’s probably not necessary but if you can it’s a little bit better You can also have the thread coming out on this side and attach this guy here using exactly the same method, which again is not quite so ideal I think, because again it’s moving the force out away quite a bit so you’re going to get like more of a lever force on your bearings So having it on this side just means that your your force is then balanced a bit more across, across the whole thing. So just lock that down good and tight. Like you, like the, this is not slipping because of how tight you’re going to get this um, this attachment. So you might wanna even like put this in a vice or something and then just like really lean on it so that’s cannot possibly slip

And then you’ve got that assembly there So you’d then loop your belt around here you have a tensioner pulley, it’ll go on to another like probably larger pulley on your turbine, or if you’re doing the $30 wind turbine design, onto the the bike wheel itself which then acts as like a 60cm pulley so you get like almost like a 12 to 1 10 to 1 gearing onto here. And then as that turns, so you have this mounted onto your, your pole or your turbine assembly in some such a way that the bike wheel hub is locked down, and then your belt is spinning the axle which then spins the rotor relative to the stator and so you get electricity If you wanted to use a chain, like a bike chain to drive your rotor instead of a belt there’s two main ways of doing that quite easy One is just to cut off the end of the hub that has the sprocket set with the bearing assembly intact, and then that should be able to fit well if you get like one, a bike wheel with a small enough like bearing assembly, it’ll fit down into the front of the rotor there So you will want to do it in the order of locking your axle into the rotor, as I described before And then second, attach the gears onto the front So I’ve just drilled three holes here, and then drilled out, just to a larger radius so they’ll take those bolts, three holes there, and then this part here is just small enough to fit in that part there. Because it’s kind of circular it centers it So you just put them there, line it up, put a bolt through, get it in the hole put a nut on the other side of that tighten it up, do that three times, and then once you’ve got that, those two locked together then you place that through your stator, like so, and then lock off your other side So that that’s all locked together as one unit You’d run your chain from whatever around there as that turns, turns the rotor You’re limited then to only be able to turn that in the direction that it engages the freewheel, if you try to any other way obviously that happens The other way is to, if you’ve got, so say I have an intact hub Say I’ve got the, like the, the alternator sitting here and then left the sprocket set on If you fuse in some way, if you attach the sprocket set to the axle, to the shaft, then as the sprocket set turns it will also turn the shaft which will also then turn the rotor. So you can do that either by like welding a plate across. If you do that then you’re not going to be able to take the thing to pieces if you want to like clean out the bearings or something afterwards. Or if you’ve got a type where the sprocket set teeth face inwards and turn with the, with the sprockets then you can cut like a little square of steel, drill a hole in it, and then sink that in so that it engages with those teeth and grabs onto them, and then lock that down with a nut or something and then as the chain turns the gears the gear, the gears turn the axle and then the axle turns the rotor And so that’s it Motorbike alternator mounted onto a bicycle wheel hub with just a car automotive pulley attached Um yeah if you have any questions just let me know in the comments or contact me directly and if you build, if you attach one of these to any kind of turbine anything that you’re working on please do let me know, let me know how you got on. It’s always good to see like results and things being put to use So enjoy, thank you