Subaru Engine Head Install

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Subaru Engine Head Install

okay so we got our heads back from the machine shop and we’re going to just quickly check them and make sure they did their job we’re going to use a flat edge again and make sure that the relates back start out with the mm sealer gauge and it’s definitely definitely with its back mm is of Fitness I have so we can check it in a couple different directions but certainly appears that they’ve done a fine job here as they usually do oh this one’s nice and straight oops okay that one’s good check the other one quick see I can’t I can’t get it a 2,000 feet or gauge underneath the bar so you’re lifting the bar putting the gauge under it and seeing if it’ll drag the bar with exactly so I know that I know since the feeler gauge is being dragged that there’s no air between the bar and the head so they’ve done a good job here of making these flat again so we’re good shape there we can put them out of the motor got the heads all ready to go back on we’re going to talk a little bit about head gasket choice right now like I said earlier the reason we’re here is because of a poor head gasket choice there I told you about three three different possibilities as far as choices that that I make now for head gaskets this is a six-star head gasket and they sell only to wholesale and parts houses they don’t sell to the end-user and I am a distributor of theirs you can you can actually obtain these from me through Kerry on youtube if you contact him directly and give him your contact information I get back with it and I can I can sell these to you they’re very reasonable these are these are the ones I’m going to use today but I’m going to show you what your other choices are fel-pro makes a this is this is a gasket that fits this application this is an MLS it’s a multi-layer steel gasket it looks very very similar to the 6th our gasket construction is almost the same if you look at them they’re almost identical the difference being the coating on the gasket I’m not really even sure what fel-pro does for coating on their gaskets but I know I’ve had good luck with them and I’ve used a lot of them in the past five six months and have had no failure with them six star gaskets I’ve done a lot of research and six star gaskets come with a warranty that’s that’s unheard of in the business they’ll if if a licensed repair facility installs them they give you one year warranty and they include towing and labor if they if they fail so that’s a pretty darn good warranty so unless unless I run out of these or they’re they’re on backorder unattainable I’ll use a felt pro or a Subaru gasket but otherwise they use these primarily so

the Subaru gasket actually is made by Victor Rennes and you can you can buy these this is this is a Subaru part number on here and this is the Subaru om head gasket for the single overhead cam engine and these work fine too it’s it’s a composite gasket versus the MLS steel gasket so the chances of it failing because of because of material separation or greater which is what I don’t like about them I do use them on occasion if a customer requests them and I do have customers that specifically want super head gaskets and I’ll use them that’s why stock them and like I say if you order order them through a victor Rance distributor it’s a it’s an OEM super Gasquet Victor Rennes is supplying Subaru so these are your three three legitimate choices anything else out there don’t even consider just kind of go over what I did already sometimes you’ll sometimes you’ll see corrosion and stuff on the deck of the block that you’ll want to you want to reconsider just putting head gaskets in the motor if you don’t have a really really good really good clean surface without any imperfections so we’re going to just take some lacquer thinner clean the deck of the block these are oil passages right here so you want to make sure that there’s no dirt or anything in those anything when you flip this motor up right any dirt in here will fall into the engine so you just want to make sure that that there’s no dirt in here likewise this is a oil feed hole you want to make sure that there’s no dirt sitting inside that hole because that will end up inside the engine what I’m going to do next is something that I’ve kind of discovered on my own sometimes you’ll notice that when you when you tighten these head bolts on a Subaru they’ll start the ped bolts will creak as you tighten them and that’s because there’s a lack of lubrication on the threads they have a lot of thread a lot of bolt thread going into the block and if there’s not enough lubrication on those that the bolt will actually creak as you try to tighten it so what I do is I pre lube all the bolt holes with oil I’m filling up every bolt olive oil right now and then I’m gonna flip the motor upside down and let it run out of those holes I’m gonna let run for about a minute we’re still going to put some oil on the threads on the bolts when we insert them in the head but this ensures that there’s enough oil deep inside the block that there’s enough uh enough lubricant just to make sure that these heads torque up right we’re going to wait till it’s wait till the oil is just dripping and then we’re gonna flip it back over okay so we’ve let that run for about a minute and a half and we’re just going to flip the block back over we’re going to clean the deck to the block again real quick back with a lacquer thinner yep or lacquer thinner okay that’s good to go and we could set the head gasket on here which way does that go on we go on one

way it does only go on one way there’s the oil drain backs for the head or on the bottom side of the block and you’ll see that there’s there’s slots in the bottom of the gasket those line up with the oil drain backs and then there’s one oval hole right here and it lines up with the oil delivery hole that supplies oil flow to it to the cylinder head so that has to be lined up there’s not a top or a bottom to it doesn’t it doesn’t say top or bottom and no doesn’t you have to you have to I guess just be smart enough to make sure you line up all the holes okay you know on the other side the gasket will actually just go the opposite direction but the six-star will will be facing off so we’ve got that lined up now we’re going to put the cylinder head on there we’re going to pick the correct cylinder head this is the driver’s side so we’re going to grab the driver’s side cylinder head how do you tell them apart well the driver’s side cylinder head has the camshaft position sensor on it and I’ll show you a little bit more about about that as I lift it up I’m going to clean the clean the gasket surface off first no head gaskets don’t use any sealant right so you can’t really mess this up because the exhaust the exhaust port faces faces downward and if you facing the exhaust port downward if the camshafts knots pointing the camshaft doesn’t point the front to the front of the engine then you have the wrong cylinder head so it’s it’s pretty simple to to distinguish with which one goes where a little bit of oil running out of this oil hole so just wipe it off quick and I’m just going to set it on then cylinder heads on now this is where we come into a little bit of controversy is head bolts on Subarus it is a yield to torque bolt which means that the both stretch and that’s what gives them their holding their holding power when you look at Subarus tightening instructions it tells you to tighten them to a certain amount and then to stretch the bolt and then back the bolt off and I’ll go in fact I’ll tell you what I’ll even read off what they tell you to do six-star gives you tightening directions in their package with it with the head gaskets and and basically what they’re telling you to do is is is follow the same instructions that Subaru gives you okay if you were to use brand new head bolts you would you would tighten them to you would follow a tightening sequence and then you would you would loosen the bolts up you would pre stretch your bolts and then loosen them up okay that’s with brand new bolts if you don’t use brand new Subaru bolts don’t replace them because they’re the only ones that I have found that work properly so you’re citing used aftermarket aftermarket head bolts and they yield way too much so you’re better off we’re using your old subaru bolts than using aftermarket bolts exactly unless you’re going to use new Subaru bolts right and if and I could tell because I’m experienced at this I can tell if if these bolts are stretching beyond their beyond what they’re does their predetermined yield it’s pretty it’s pretty easy to tell if you go through the torque sequence if the bolt is weak and if it is I’ll replace it so we’re going to reuse them sue every Subaru technician that I know that works at Subaru as a as an as a hard line mechanic reuses the bolts and if they tell you they don’t align they do sue Subaru might say we got to to replace them but when they when they do warranty repairs they reuse them and 90% of time unless there’s some problem with corrosion on the bolt threads they reuse them so anyway we’re going to reuse them and we’re going to skip the pre torque spec where we have to stretch the bolts because they’re already stretch it and used it ready putting oil on the threads

and putting oil on underneath the on top of the washer underneath the head of the bolt and dropping them in there’s two different bolts there’s a there’s one with a painted head there’s one of the non painted head the non painted head has a bigger washer on it and those two go to the center there’s two different bolts so we’re going to use a 14 millimeter 12 point socket and we’re going to we’re going to just draw these up ah not even snug we’re just bringing them bringing them right up against the head we’re not going to tighten them at all we’re just going to take them to where the head is just starting to snug up we’re going to go through the torque sequence which is what I’m doing right now this is the torque proper torque sequence for a sugru head now we’re going to take a half inch torque wrench 1412 point we’re going to set our torque wrench to 11 foot pounds and we’re going to go through the torques we’re going to go through the sequence starting at the top here that one already freaking that creaking yeah bolt back out why does that bother you so much because you just can’t get a good you can’t get it took good torque when they’re doing that so it’s not just an unnecessary noise it’s a warning that the torques not proper like good enough sometimes you can take the bolt back out and run it back in and it’ll stop you know it’ll quit doing that I’ll add a little bit more lubricant to it so doesn’t that change the order now because didn’t you start with that one first I only went to eleven foot pounds which is barely even tightening it okay so I’m going to go back and bring that one back to 11 you know didn’t creak no creaking go through the torque sequence go through it again I’m going to go through the third third time okay we brought we brought all six bowls to eleven foot-pounds now what we’re doing is we’re actually following Subarus guidelines but we just we just disregarded the stretching to that the the first couple of steps that that pretty much just entail prestretching the bolt because the bolts have already been pre stretch you’ve already been in a running motor so they’ve been stretched already basically it’s a break in they’ve already been broken in exactly okay so okay so now we’re going to tighten that the center to 225 foot-pounds okay now we’re going to go through the torque sequence and we’re going to go to we’re to go through the sequence twice and tighten it up a quarter each bolt up a quarter of a turn twice so we’re going to do it in sequence so we’re starting at a at a right angle and we’re going to go we’re going to turn it exactly at a quarter turn

see that creaking not going to go away on that one that one too you do the quarter turn twice yep return twice that’s going to suck it in this camp now this is a critical part you can’t do that so we’re done that hits tight we’re going to go ahead and preview up all the moving parts on the head before we put the valve cover on these heads have been in and they’ve been all washed up so they’ve washed all the oil and lubrication out of every all the moving parts points so we’re just going to loop them up with good give them a little pre Luanne’s for start-up we’re going to put the spark plug tube grommets on pushing them on firmly they should fit nice and snug and they should be real pliable swipe that off nice I put new gaskets in the valve covers I clean the valve covers up and I inserted new gaskets in here already so the valve covers don’t use a dinner they don’t use any sealer either slip the valve cover on we’ve got we’ve got new valve cover grommets we’re going to put on there too on the single overhead cam you got two long bolts that go on the top and into the three shorter bolts go in the center in the bottom well the two long bolts always wear the spark plug holes are yep they’re always on the top the top two next to the spark plug holes good to go do you go back and tighten those up more later or is that as title clear that’s a shoulder bolt so they’d only get tightened up about 20 foot pounds and you just night probably not even 20 I mean I tighten them up by feel I’ve been doing it a long time probably only 15 foot bones now we’re repeating the same process on the other side let me guess you’re putting oil in the holes with a bolts go to prevent the creaking hopefully to prevent the creaking doesn’t always doesn’t always work it certainly reduces it it helps but does it hurt I mean I wish I wish there was a better solution to that but okay so we’ve let that drain for flip it back over see a little bit of gasket material I missed that one

ready to set this one on red red ones go to the outside and then non painted to the inside you set the torque wrench to 11 foot-pounds go through the torque sequence again keep going through the torque sequence until we get in till they all hold their torque which they are now okay just double-check the middle ones okay now we’re going to reset the torque wrench to 25 foot-pounds and do the center – these are not creaking okay now we’re ready to go through the whole sequence two quarter turns like just like the other side we’re just going to lube up there the rocker assemblies a little bit moving up the the roller assemblies this little pre lube because we add them apart put the sparkplug tube grommets on pushing them on firmly make sure they’re all the way in and keep in mind if these aren’t real soft and pliable don’t reuse them buy new ones slip on the valve cover on make sure it’s on there square start tightening them down with a ten millimeter socket let me do it incrementally and we’re just snugging these up like I say maybe 10 to 15 foot-pounds are not very tight their shoulder bolts we don’t want to break them and I’ve seen people

strip out the heads and I’ve seen people break them we’re not going to do that here today you’re all done okay we’re going to start assembling the timing cover and components right now we’ll start with the small passenger side timing is just a small timing cover just basically keeps the elements out of the timing cover there’s just two bolts in that one put that on and tighten it up what size socket is a 10 millimeter socket Subaru’s use a lot of ten millimeter bolts ten twelve fourteen seventeen that’s it huh pretty much okay that one’s on we talked a little bit about this one these inserts have a tendency of breaking and if the inserts are broken I would replace it this one was brand new when I did this motor the last go-around so none of them are broken Scott snaps in place just snug them up they don’t have to be real tight we’re going to put the left timing pulley on in there marked with L and R there is an L on the pulley and another way to distinguish the left from the right is on the backside of it these are the the triggers for the for the cam for the cam sensor it’s got triggers on the back side if you look at the look at the right side it doesn’t have those so this is the left side we’re going to put that on again the right side has our stamp right on it lining up there’s a pin that has to line up with a notch in the camshaft pretty self-explanatory it only lines up one way when you put that out and hand-tighten it this cam gears are held on with a 17 millimeter bolt the head of the bolt is a 17 millimeter and we’re going to torque these to 65 foot-pounds this is a this is the proper tool for for holding the cam gear from turning the only other way you can do it is put the put the belt on and pull a tensioner and then impact them lightly but this is the proper way to tighten them it just sets sets in there and holds it from spinning while you tighten it just hold the cam gear from turning tight okay we’re going to start putting the balance of the timing components on now and what we want to do is you want to check each and every pulley before we put them on these pulleys are very very critical and especially when you’ve got the engine apart they need to be checked a lot of people neglect these these particular items when they’re when they’re working on Subaru engine and it’s probably one of the main failure points in the engine especially the COG here this is a cog dialer when you spin it it should spin smoothly without any noise and you should it should spend smooth as silk and this one is only

about about six months old so it’s it’s a great shape to get one I’m going to grab one and show you what a bad one looks like I’m going to show you a cogged timing gear that is that is very close to failure this is one that came out of a running engine but it probably wouldn’t last maybe more than six months or another year before major failure you can see how it continues to spin and if you listen you can actually hear the noise hear the noise it makes there is absolutely no lubrication left in that bearing sounds like a roller skate wheel and I see a lot of engines come to me where somebody has just done a timing belt replacement and not change this pulley how much does that pulley cost $30.00 it’s a $30.00 pulley how long do they normally last a hundred thousand miles so anytime a timing belt should be changed that police should be changed to in your opinion absolutely if you change your timing belt if the timing belt warrants replacement so does this play in fact this pulley probably warrants replacement before the timing belt hmm nine times out of ten if somebody brings me a car for timing belt replacement this pulley needs to be replaced worse than the timing belt and nine times out of ten if you take it to a shop that’s not familiar with Subarus n’ and how they function and operate they’ll replace a timing belt and leave this unserviceable fails it bends all the valves in the engine so it’s it’s it’s foolish not to suspend at 30 even if you even if you have it done in a Subaru dealer I think they’re only fifty sixty dollars i I by the OEM Subaru pulleys for less than $30 but a shop may charge you 50 bucks they may charge you $60 for this berry regardless of the cost it definitely warrants replacement this is the one pulley that fails 90% of time there are two other pulleys the two are the two right side idler pulleys these have been replaced these are OEM Subaru pulleys very smooth I mean lately literally turn smooth as silk they’ve been replaced six months ago so all the pulleys on this engine are in great shape but just to keep in mind that when you’re doing a service and you’ve got the timing cover off these need to be looked at but you know very closely very important part of the process you putting on now put them on yo put that one on are they the same or just wanna have to go in one location and one goes on the other these two are the same okay actually from the factory they had the lower pulley hat was a single wide bearing and it had a back had a had a lip on the back and show you what that looked like this is what the OEM pulley looked like that came on this engine it’s got a lip on the backside I see you can also see that the bearing is not nearly as wide the actual bearing inside there see our narrow it is the bearing itself these last about half as long as these do this bearing will wear will will wear out in half the time that this variable so and you can replace them every it’s it’s you can put the wider bearing in here does it have a name it’s just either very but I mean how do you know when you ask for that part at the parts store that you’re not going to get the one with the lip on it versus the one with no it’s it’s uh I guess it’s something that you just have to spec it at the time of purchase inspect the time purchase okay I’m not going to put this one on I’m going to put the car going on we’re going to wait and put the a the lower one on wait a little bit to do that so we got these two on this pin very nicely we’re going to index the timing marks this timing mark lines up with the parting line on the head right here you

see where my finger is there’s a gasket parting line here and that’s where this this one lines up to on this side there’s a there’s a notch in the timing cover that this one lines up to right there and right there so the camera is a little on an angle but those two are lined up it’s a little hard to tell for this angle yep they are the timing belt has three timing marks on it it’s got a dotted timing timing mark with arrows that one goes on the crankshaft pulley and it’s got a light on it right here for the for one of the camshaft pulleys and another one for the other camshaft pulley very very very easy to put on without messing it up I thought a belt could just go anywhere it’s a timing belt everything’s got to be timed yeah but aren’t all the grooves in the belt at the same distance apparently not this this silver has done this to make it to make it almost foolproof you line that you line the mark up on the belt with the mark on the pulley I put it just a light weight clamp on it to hold it in place you see the timing mark on the pulley and you can see the timing mark on the belt and that lines up with where on the case the parting line between that the cam retention plate in the head those are lined up well it’s not because if I if I turn it real hard to line up okay but I have to put tension on the belt to get the line up and you did the center one first which is Center one is is that the dotted the dotted mark with the with the arrows goes with the timing mark on the on the oil pump and the time mark on the crank pulley so that little groove right there is the timing mark that little groove right there is the timing mark and then this this line here lines up with both of those timing marks okay and then by default the other one should just line up automatically right the third one by default so there’s the mark on the pulley and the mark on the belt here’s the mark on the belt and where’s the mark on the cover right here little notch gotcha so all the timing marks are lined up right now we haven’t put the this lower pulley on yet we’re going to wait until the tensioner on we’re going to put the tension around before we put this bottom pulley on now you’ve got to do something with the tensioner to pre tension it right exactly got the tensioner in my hand and we’re going to compress the piston it’s an oil charge piston and we’re going to compress it quick and put and put a pin in there to hold it in place well we put the tension around the engine a brand new tensioner would have the pin in it already but because up because we’re reusing the tensioner we’re going to we’re going to we’re going to reposition the pin in there going to tighten it up so there’s a little pin in there you’re pushing in pushing a piston in it’s a piston okay Austin it’s the oil it’s an oil charged piston and when you get it pushed in enough then that little hole at the top should be lined up with the other will line up with a hole in the piston like it does right now and then I just take it back apart you can look at it and you can see that it retains the the piston in a certain position cool okay now while we’ve got everything locked well we have everything lined up here we’re gonna set this in place let me see where that goes okay we’re going to tighten we’re going to start it by hand we’re going to put that in that bolt in by hand I see lots of people because they put this bottom pulley on first and the belt and if the belt is brand new it’s so tight that you can’t get this in it’s very difficult to get in and people put a wrench on here and strip and they’ll strip the hole in the back of the of the retention plate for the fur the tensioner so and the belt doesn’t need to be tightened – the last thing you do right once I once I get all the Cabal these pulleys tight well I’ll put

this but I’ll put this pulley on now now I can I can actually push the belt up by hand and put this bolt in very clever we just leave we just leave ourselves a little bit of a little bit of slack in the belt so we can get this in now we’re going to tighten all these components up then tighten them 250-foot palms this is a 14 millimeter socket and tighten all four of them double check make sure all the timing marks are lined up take the clamps off pull the pin everything’s tensioned ready to put the cover on if this was a manual transmission car this plate would be bolted on right here at the at these two points on the oil pump this is like this is a bump it called its called a bump plate on the oil pump that this is the oil pump back here okay all right and there’s there’s two there’s two bosses that are built into that oil pump and if it was a manual transmission car it would come with one of these plates on there and it would be bolted in and it would be adjusted so there’s about 50 thousandths of clearance between the belt and the plate you want at least 50 thousands clearance there and basically what this plate does is if somebody bumps into your car if it’s a manual transmission and it’s a gear and somebody were to bump into your car if the time you wouldn’t jump because this the timing can jump very easily on the crank gear on this particular motor with an automatic you don’t have to worry about it because there’s no direct drive both a manual transmission this is very critical and that just tilts in it locks the gear from spinning this this keeps this keeps the belt inserted into the into the coat keeps the belt in the okay I see what you’re saying expect here so the belt can’t rise it can’t rise and slip and slip out of the teeth exactly oh it does is it just it’s it’s it’s there’s like only a 50 thousands clearance so if this engine gets jolted it doesn’t allow the belt to rise up out of the teeth of the gears and spin so this is only used on manual and manual transmission cars and this car is obviously going into an automatic tree exactly so I don’t put one on there so then the last part now for the timing is the timing cover timing cover goes on now all right we saved all the bolts sure did and these timing covers are notorious for breaking lots of people pry on them to get the harmonic balancer off they break them yeah you mentioned that when you were taking the balancer off that you took your time and you didn’t want to put any pressure on that plastic because it’s plastic exactly and these are these are for about forty five dollars if you have to replace it 45 do you know if there’s an aftermarket metal one no nobody makes any effort there’s not even an aftermarket plastic one available Wow you have to buy this at Subaru wonder why no you’re you’re at their mercy I replace this timing cover on almost every engine I rebuild because they’re almost always broken and are you always replacing them with new or do you just get them out of junkyards if you can find one at a junkyard I’d be a miracle hmm they’re not available those are still 12s these are ten tens yep ten millimeters how many bolts in total hold down one

two three four five six seven eight nine 10 11 11 hold this section of it on and then there’s three that hold it the other smaller cover on those are just hand tight sure I’ll tight you make those bulky I want to crack the plastic drink another shoulder bolt so they won’t crack plastic but I don’t I just snug them up they don’t have to be real tight you don’t want to strip them or break them have to be real tight at all then that will last cover there why does that come off separately why is that all just one piece good question that’s a legitimate question no good reason that is super that one interesting must’ve had something to with expansion on the earlier on the earlier single overhead cam 2.2 s they actually had a center cover and then two side covers yeah at least that we’d be the same on both sides right such as weird it’s just on that one side when they redesigned the 2.5 single overhead cam engine they they went to the cults it’s called the panhead motor and that’s they make a 2.2 that’s just like this or yeah if they started that in 99 a 2.2 engine looks exactly the same but it’s a smaller displacement it made them in 99 and into the 2000s so we’re going to put the harmonic balancer on now just gotta take that bolt back out that you I guess that keeps you from losing the bolt if you just leave it in there huh yeah I put a little bit of grease a little bit of grease in here so it next guy has to pull it off it’s easier we’re going to light there’s a there’s a key way we’re going to on the bottom and we’re going to line up the key way on the bottom on this and slide it in crank tool these four are used on a tube on a 2.2 harmonic balancer and these four are used on a 2.5 they have a different different configuration we’re going to set the feeler or the torque wrench to 125 foot-pounds that’s a tight one ya don’t want to come loose makes a mess of things if it comes loose it comes loose it tears up the end of the crank shaft in the motors junk and I see them come loose all the time people do timing services in them in the car and they don’t have the proper tool to tighten this bolt up sometimes you’ll see them with with Loctite on them but this is the correct way to do it these are specialty wrenches that are available for holding camshafts and crank shafts for Subarus this one right here is for an F to hold STI cam shaft sprockets this one right here is for a dual overhead cam 2.5 camshaft sprocket this one right here is for this motor for holding the steel gears on the 2.5 single overhead cam engine and this one’s for holding the crank shaft these tools are available on there’s a couple of different eBay stores that sell them

there’s an outfit called j8e Motorsports comm that sells these elsewhere I bought mine from I’ll make sure we put link to that in the video notes below the video you know j8e Motorsports comm these range between 45 and 50 dollars each but if you’re going to do any amount of work on a Subaru engine they’re a must they I mean I worked on Subarus for a while without these and I’ll tell you what since I bought them it has made my life so much easier especially if you’re doing a timing belt service in the car and you need to remove the cam gears or the crank or the crank shaft harmonic balancer this tool makes it so easy to get it loose and take it back and put it back on and get a torque to the correct spec so it’s it’s worth the investment two hundred bucks I paid with shipping I think I paid two hundred and twenty five dollars for all four of these we’re going to start the dipstick real quick here I’m put a little bit of oil on the OL Rings before we cap it in place just feed it in through next to the water crossover tube right like that go down here and we’re going to see where it goes into the oil pan right here just you can feel it with your fingers just line it up there we go just pushes it snaps right in and then we’re going to put the retention bolt in up on top