Дома лучше! Карпаты: Тустань, Явирник, Замок Шенборнов, Синевир, карпатские водопады

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Дома лучше! Карпаты: Тустань, Явирник, Замок Шенборнов, Синевир, карпатские водопады

Hi, I am Zhenya Sinelnikov, a professional traveler I have visited over 110 counties, as well as each and every regional center city in Ukraine This is beautiful! Very cool! And you know what? I want to keep traveling inside our country, because east or west, home is best! And this is why we decided not to limit ourselves to cities and to go on a grand automobile tour of the Carpathians We’ve split our journey into the Carpathians in two episodes. In the first episode we will visit cliffs and waterfalls, unique people and trees, Carpathian spa with a breathtaking view and, of course, Lake Synevyr These destinations are only points on the map, but what there is to do and what other interesting things there are, we will ask the locals and find out from the Internet, thankfully, Kyivstar maintains the most extensive 4G coverage in Ukraine, which means that one can plot routes, Google interesting facts, and post photos on social media right from their phone Listen, here’s my advice: if you’re driving to the Carpathians, start early in the morning, not because the road is long and difficult, the highway is actually very smooth with good pavement, but because it is very beautiful. The whole point of travelling is seeing with your own eyes something unusual, something you’re not accustomed to. It’s not the subway or a bus or your office, it’s something unusual So, when you’re driving to the Carpathians, when you see this fog, those churches, a horse in the fog, and these things are awesome, you see unusual things, this is when your re st and your journey starts Look at that beauty “Hurkalo waterfall” I made it It wobbles I can hear it rumble already. Let’s see where it is… Oh, yes! This is beautiful, isn’t it? It may not be as large as I’d like, but it’s very beautiful, with this cliff and the big trees, the crystal-clear pond, the ferns, it’s awesome! Wow! Oh, the water is freezing cold! I am NOT going for a swim It’s beautiful, it’s a great instaplace. By the way, why not? We keep traveling in Ukraine, discovering unknown, like this waterfall, but very cool places where you can take breathtaking photos for the social media. Instaplace, brought to you by Kyivstar In fact, this feature is going to be extensive today. Instead of one waterfall, I’ll show you several! Isn’t it great? Ok, let’s go! I also want to note that it’s not a wild forest, the people created rest areas here with nice tables, a toilet over there, but this is what really impressed the heck out of me. Look

You can order bbq meat: pork or veal, baked potatoes, beer, kvas or mojito, seven a.m. to ten p.m Full service, for sure. Well done! Travel in Ukraine, take photos in instplaces by Kyivstar, post them and win prizes! You can find all the details in Kyivstar social media, the link is in the description “Sopyt waterfall” I meant it when I promised you several waterfalls. I knew already that there was another waterfall nearby, and I was advised to visit it. There are pavilions here as well. Great. I have to admit, we are walking from one beautiful place to another, but while we are walking, this Carpathian forest is something… unimaginable, it’s very beautiful, it’s awesome and breathtaking. Right, Dima? Yes to everything. Whatever he says is the truth, listen to his every word. What were you saying, though, Jenya? I was saying it’s awesome here It is, yes. Do we have far to go yet? “Waterfall” Amazing! Introducing the next waterfall… wait, Dima, where are you at? Ah, there you are! How do you do this? Sopyt waterfall! Oh yes, this is breathtaking, guys. Wow. The rumbling of the water, the falling leaves, the sun is shining, and no one in sight Guys, when you come to this waterfall, check out those firs that grow on stones. Look at this. Cool, isn’t it? Right on the stone. Imagine the will to live to grow these roots all the way down to the soil from here Actually, we found these waterfalls almost by accident, they were just along the route But the first planned point was Tustan In case you didn’t know, Tustan are these cliffs, which used to be the site of an unassailable fortress It is a very popular tourist destination now. In 2020, Tustan was the third in the list of Google searches for Ukrainian natural landmarks. Cool Look at what is says here. Right here. “This year’s Tustan visitor count”. 97 132, and I am going to be the ninety seven thousand one hundred thirty third visitor. Good number I haven’t come inside yet, but I should say that Tustan is a good example of what a good tourist location should look like, because everything is well-kept, the pavements are new, all structures are built in the same style, there is a parking lot, every sign has an English translation, it’s great

Oh, a guided tour. I want t guided tour Hello! Hello. First of all, I should tell you about the origin of these cliffs. It’s a natural formation, they weren’t brought here by anyone. The cliffs here formed from sand about 55 million years ago 55 MILLION years? Yes. This used to be the Thetys sea, and thick sand sediment formed on the bottom of that sea Human structures appeared much later, in the early 9th century. This area was settled by Croatian tribes from the 6th till the 10th century, and in the end of the 10th century, as we all know, Volodymyr the Great conquered the Croatian and annexed them to the Kyivan Rus Tustan performed three important functions: the first was defense, but in the 13th century another of its functions was customs, because an important salt trading route passed through Tustan to transport salt from the city of Drohobych, where it was mined, to Western Europe, which had very little salt deposits The third function was administrative, as Tustan used to be the governing center of the area All of the gaps between the cliffs were filled with wooden structures. There is a picture… So the fortress itself was over there? Yes, it was at the top Wow It was all built of wood We are approximately here, yes? No, we are here I see. So the wall was here… Can you see the lines carved in stone, that look like the letter H? Yes, I do This is where the wall was attached This is augmented reality. If you download Tustan AR app from PlayMarket, you can see the wooden fortress is it once was Wow. You feel the sense of scale very differently this way, when you can see this enormous wooden fortress In general, these cliffs are shrouded in legend, and one was made real. The legend has it that once a year, on Easter, when the church bells are chiming, the cliffs move apart forming a cave, where one could find treasure This mirror is like an entrance to the treasure cave. The cave is actually quite natural, and there are no treasures behind the mirror, but the legend exists nevertheless, and no matter how much you want to find a treasure, cliffs just don’t move. But the mirror is like a treasure cave entrance Awesome. So simple, yet so great As a tourist, I’d like to note that the walkway beneath our feet is neat, clean and easy to walk, not wet dirt. It’s great. I want to film the new walkway without your help Wow, it’s so beautiful here How many people were there in the fortress, how big was it? There were about 50 soldiers, all-man garrison, there were no women or children in Tustan So it was a dedicated military site? Yes, you can say that. The gate was where the entirely natural wide gap is. The gate was, of course, protected, it was protected by a drawbridge, which was operated with the help of a complex mechanism for its time Large buckets connected to the bridge were filled with stones, and when the buckets descended, the bridge was raised The law of equilibrium. But to avoid having to raise and lower the bridge every time someone needed to enter or exit the fortress, our ancestors cut out a smaller gap in the cliffs and built a smaller passage there Wow, cool It was all built of wood, there were numerous chambers and galleries, and the height of the structure was 25 meters, remember, it was the 13th century 25 meters! Yes, it was amazingly tall for its time 30 meters is the height of a 9 story building By the way, Tustan has never been taken by assault The fortress was quite unassailable, with its biggest advantage being its height Are you sure you may climb there, that they won’t chase you away? They don’t object It’s scary! We are not going to do it, but we also won’t judge the people who want to take pictures among all this beauty The cliffs are indeed breathtaking Cool! There are many boulders like this around. Only the three top ones were built over,

but there are many equally beautiful places around. Amazing I am really enjoying the walkway. My light-colored shoes are still light. It’s a basic tourist delight Heh, “basic tourist delight”, I know how to compose a phrase, don’t I. Phrases, actually. Whatever Every year, despite the fact that the fortress is long gone, it still comes to life during the Medieval culture festival A knight tournament is held on the first weekend of August, along with various master-classes and competitions; people can experience the spirit of the Middle Ages and to immerse themselves into that atmosphere One can learn Medieval dances, play the role of a warrior… There is an entire encampment here! Yes, a trading camp What did you choose? I’m going to get this t-shirt, I like t-shirts like this Great. The selection is good Yes, the souvenirs are great. Everything is great Virtual flights over the Tustan fortress Hello! Will you give us a ride? Sure! Wow! Take the steering bar… This is it I’ll give you the goggles… Do I get to steers? Of course. To get to the fortress you will control the flight, left, right, forward and back Oh! Oh! I’m already in flight! Now hold the steering bar! Oh, I’m flying already! Hold it but don’t steer yet Ok, but I’m on the ground already One minute, we’ll take you up A fall cannot be avoided Oh, there we go See the fortress? Now go easy Awesome! Wow! Here it is! Oh, I’m going to fly into a window! Well, that didn’t work I’m going to make it! Not something to be done in real life. Awesome! It was so big! Careful now! It feels like I can touch it. Frankly, it’s a little scary that you might fall and kill yourself. Ah… Very cool First of all, you can see everything when you’re flying, and second, it’s a rush, because you tilt for real when you fly, right? Right And you feel like you’re really flying a parafoil. Oh, you could see my flight here? I though no one could see me fly There is this effect that you’re flying and controlling the flight for real, it reacts very well to your every move, and the fortress… you fly past it and then you make a turn and… ah! You feel it in your gut. It’s great Tustan is a place I strongly recommend “Uzhotsk pass” The waterfalls and Tustan are in Lviv oblast, in Subcarpathia, but we are going further and higher, along the Polish border, over the Uzhotsk pass It’s such a pity that we came to the Uzhotsk National Part after sunset, because it’s so beautiful and so epic… it is really lacking the sunshine now, but it’s still very pretty I’m contradicting myself by saying it’s beautiful even without the sun, and also that it lacks sunshine Take it as you will, the fact is that it’s still breathtaking The next morning we woke up in Transcarpathia and moved on to meet the local old-timers “Dido-dub (Grandpa Oak)”

Well, hello, Grandpa oak. You are all aware of my love for the big old trees, aren’t you Meet the biggest and the oldest oak-tree in Ukraine. Epic Hello, giant one Just think about it: it’s the oldest living thing in Ukraine. It’s 1200 years old. It was planted in pre-Christian times here It’s awesome. I feel so small. But at least I can walk! I can leave this place if I want! There are three oaks here, not one. There is one down that way, the second is up there, it seems it grows on private property and you cannot go there, but if you go through this door, you can Still private property, but the owners don’t mind. The Rusyn word for this door is “branka”, by the way Hi. You are hard to hug. Dima, come here, it’s hollow inside. Wow! And every branch is green! Not a single dry branch. Cool. Frodo must live nearby. That is the third oak This looks like someone wanted to cut down this beauty, but failed, which is good “Yavirnyk” Now that we’ve seen interesting trees, it’s time to see interesting people We are going to visit to a real keeper of a mountain What can I say. All the best things in the Carpathians are high in the mountains That includes the cool people. We actually met Yanko back when we were setting the record largest trembita playing in Ivano-Frankivsk But he was so interesting and vivid that I decided I wanted to meet him again. Let’s go. Here he is! Hello! Hello! Why’d you not say anything? I wasn’t… I wasn’t hiding anything Good day! Record setters! How long is the walk to your place? A three-year-old walks there in one hour and a half One and a half hours, well, we’ll get there in an hour and ten minutes This is very cool The way you lean on the axe This axe is my forty-year old friend Forty years old? I’ve had it for forty years Well, it looks as good as new It’s stainless steel And it’s for walking like this? A walking stick? Simply said, it’s a weapon Aha I don’t carry none of those silly noise tools. This way. I meet everyone with it and I see everyone off with it They say, why do you see us off with this axe in your hand? Especially the Russians And I say, lest you return. Something like that

It’s hard to reach you in summer, I don’t think you can get here in winter at all In winter people can use tracked snow-bikes Ok, but if you need something, like getting some vegetable oil or something? Well, Yevhen, first of all, I walk down and up twice a week, and second, people bring things here. See that flower? Yes. Wow It’s a barometer flower. It’s called carline thistle and it shows humidity You can see there is no humidity now, and so the weather is fine. And when the flower is closed… Then there is humidity? There is humidity. I have several: seven years, five years and two. It shows me the humidity The flower doesn’t even have to be alive? No, it will indicate humidity even if you pick it This is beautiful You can say that. It’s a good simple pathway By the way, I clear it every week, otherwise it wouldn’t be like this. This is an umbrella mushroom Is it edible? I dry them on a string, then you can boil it, and you have broth. You have soup Look at the love between the birch and the beech. A little snake like A little snake-like, but still love It’s so beautiful. I am a little tired now, and I just can’t imagine how he walks into the valley and back twice a week Although, I suppose, if you want to eat, you’d have to go They were building an elevated walkway here, but the tractor fell over so they left it Nice walkway. By the way, are you ok with me speaking Russian? I am a very tolerant person. We have no problem here in Transcarpathia Everything is so closely mixed in the Carpathians It is, but there is respect. Respect to all languages That’s good, that’s the way it should be, I think. But the way people speak here in Transcarpathia is the… Well, half the people here speak using ancient Slavic expressions straight from the Lay of the Host of Igor But my favorite poem is The Pioneers. I always say it’s a masonic anthem This is how it goes: “Break through this granite wall! Let neither heat nor cold you efforts stay!” That sounds clear as day to me. It’s your destiny to break that granite wall What do you do if you walk through the forest and meet a bear? It’s not that simple. Bears hear well, you are not going to just bump into one It can happen if you were acting stupid and trespassing into their hiding places. An animal has its place So if you are just walking along… No bear would ever come to the path, that is for sure. They just don’t need to. There have been cases… A woman saw a bear and started screaming, so the bear shit itself and ran away. I mean it Wow, it’s amazing Let’s go Let’s go I walk backwards here to protect this muscle. I am sixty-six, so I must come up with something creative Like this? Well, no, you walk like this first, and then like this, looking behind you. Like a dance. I love dancing

When it’s steep, it turns you around. Besides, it’s simple logic, if you fall to the ground like this, it’s not far, but if you fall that way, it is a long way to fall This path was made by human hands, it couldn’t just appear Look at the freshly fallen branches, you’d have a hard time walking over that Yes, I never though that making a path takes so much effort, but if you look at that, and consider making a walkable path through that… that’s impressive It’s so green here. I though there would be coniferous forest here, and that the ground would be covered with fallen firs only No, it’s bramble berries Dima, what did you find? It’s wolfberry. Delicious. It’s bramble! I just didn’t tell you. Try it, it’s very good. Watery, but good Ah, it’s good. Wild berry. Completely organic Who did this? Who cleared the path when the tree fell? It was the people who bring horses. I don’t have a saw that big. I bring them in a wheelbarrow A wheelbarrow? Yes, from up there, where I showed you. I bring the stones from there These stone walls are two months old, that one is only a couple of days old Come into the house, boys Come in, we’ll close the doors Yanko’s house is a lot like its dweller: simple, comfortable and authentic This will keep me warm You should remove your jacket Is it better with the jacket off? Of course, it is. When I use this to warm up ladies, it goes over the naked body The naked body? What would you expect? Ah, you’re a real Hutsul. The axe, the belt and the flask, those things have not changed in thousands of years It’s part of Transcarpathian identity. The thing is, the Hutsul lands are well defined, there is Rakhiv, and the part in Ivano-Frankivsk region et cetera. The people here were so mixed that they could be anyone but Hutsuls, because this is medium elevation, and they would be, for example, carpenters. It’s defined by the embroidery, the way of speaking, the dancing and customs, and they were different there. If there is a holiday, you’ll see Czech cooking, Hungarian cooking, the local cooking, so go figure the ethnicity. It’s all very complicated Can we give you a hand with anything? No, no. You’re a guest An amazing person. I’ve been smiling the entire way, and I’m still smiling. I’m sure I’ll keep smiling after we have tea

I’ve worn it for forty years Forty years? No, the one you have is older than that. As is the other one. I bought it off somebody What is this? Some berry… It’s a secret A secret, huh? Feels very good What is this? What, something wrong with it? No, it’s great Well, then there you have it I’m just interested, what goes into that tea It’s my main stock in trade, in a manner of speaking And what is that? This? A berries infusion, the soft kind Ah, I love the smell. Salo (cured pork fat), rye bread and garlic smell delicious Can I ask you something serious? You live so far from people… Far? Don’t make me laugh, Yevhen. When I build, everyone says why I do, but it’s my tenth construction project, and they are all different. I would never manage it without help. Everyone asks me what it is going to be, and I say it will be a place where friends meet, because there were so many people helping me. It’s all tied, and every knot has people When you say “aino”, what does it mean? Aino means very fine Very fine, I see You like the word? Yes, it’s interesting Well, that’s aino Aino! Great! Can I try? It’s the same as trembita, right? Yes You’re the first to do it right. I mean it. Everyone else just goes “pffff” That’s because I own a trembita of my own Well, you know. All my ancestors were trembita players, so I must not let them down. But I’m a violin player, actually Yanko is such a wonderful character that a sculptor from Uzhorod made him a monument But we have to keep moving, the road is calling Excuse me, how did you get here? By pushing it half the way Wow, this is quite a track. Use meet and transport tourists in this vehicle? If necessary. There are many who prefer going on foot This looks scary. We took a ride in a Sherpa ATV in Kyiv not so long ago, it’s a Ukrainian made ATV, and the trail was more or less similar. This ride downhill in this vehicle is as engaging emotionally, as the way up on foot Very impressive. First of all, we are GOING! Second of all, we are going along such a road, that… It’s cool You really need this vehicle in your garage Especially if your garage is at a mountaintop Wow, this is so impressive, a person would probably be bogged down where we just passed Nothing by a tractor can go through

I just wish the door would stay closed. I’ll just hold it like this Just like this, huh Ok, we’re there. This is a real ATV “Lumoshory” We were in a hurry to descend from the mountains for a reason We wanted to make it to the famous Lumshory before sunset. It’s a Carpathian village well known for its hot tubs Well, this is it, the ideal end of a day in the Carpathians Ah, hot! Ideally, I would jump in, but I’d rather add some cold water first, with your permission. All right, let’s take a dive Ah, this is so awesome. Have you ever soaked your feet in a bowl of hot water? Imagine the same, only with your entire body After freezing in the mountains, it’s amazing. And with a view! You get the idea. There is a metal tub over a fire heating the water. If it gets too hot, you can add cold water from this hose I always thought the tub would be very hot, impossible to touch even, but it’s not the case. The water is hot, the tub is cool, but if you touch the place in the tub where it is heated by the fire, it is hot This is why the bottom is covered with stones, which provide pleasant heat. These are the stones The stone is actually hot! Basically, the stones are heated and then transfer that heat to the water Well, we understand… Dima, not again… anyway. Here it is. There is a fire burning, so you’re basically boiled over a fire This may look ordinary, after all it’s just a tub over a fire, just a giant cooking pot, but it’s absolutely awesome First of all, there is that smell of the fire, the smell of the Carpathians in this water, and there is the breathtaking view One way to put it is that you’re enjoying yourself in one giant cup of Carpathian tea There is an interesting effect: the more time you spend here, the hotter the water becomes. When you get in, it seems hot, but then your body adjusts and doesn’t feel the heat as much. Then, with time, you feel that the water is really hot And then, with time, you’re going to have to jump into that pool over there Well, I will My God, this is amazing! Traditionally, the tubs would be based next to a spring, and you’d jump from the tub into the spring, but in that case you don’t get this view. Which I am enjoying now

“Davir waterfall” Well, my friends, here is another unknown waterfall for you, Davir, whichever syllable is stressed It used to be called the Partisan waterfall. Let’s go take a look. It’s very beautiful here There are actually several waterfalls here, not just one. Here is one, here is another, and there is the third one. Great You can clearly see how water cleaves its way through the rock here You can see the groves created by the water that has flown here for many years The shape of the rocks is really awesome. This is great. Awesome This is such a beautiful place. No matter where you point your camera. There is a forest that way, a bridge the other way, the waterfall itself that flows into another breathtaking forest, with all of its small cascades… even the old masonry work is very pretty. Even regular moss looks like something from a fairy tale This place is awesome. You should certainly come here for a look Another important point is that you can easily drive right next to the waterfall, no long hike required. Awesome! Look, on this side there is a noisy waterfall, and on the other side the feel is so different, its calm and quiet Like a garden waterfall, the creek just barely murmurs, but it is every bit as beautiful “The Schönborn Castle.” Ok, I was honest during our tour of Ukrainian castles and said that I haven’t shown you the half of the castles worth seeing, but my messenger was flooded with people who could not understand how I could have missed the beautiful Schönborn castle. So here it is It was built by the Austrian Count Schönborn in the end of the 19th century as a hunting residence The Count or his architect were quite creative: the castle has 365 windows, like days in a year, 52 rooms, like weeks and 12 entrances, like months. But the most surprising fact was this: the castle is still used by the Karpaty health and holiday center, which is located in the Karpaty villiage, located in the Carpathians Frankly, it’s not as impressive on the inside, so far. The library… this way. The chandelier is very fine

Imagine coming to the Carpathians for recreation and live in a real castle. Not come here on a tour, but actually live here. Even if the interior is not quite luxurious, it’s still very impressive. Look at this Well, yeah, it’s no longer the castle it must have been once. Well, that’s life There is an open door, I think we should look inside. And just like that, the magic is gone. I say we go back outside, it’s prettier there You know what I though? Maybe it’s not bad that the castle was turned into a health resort, maybe that’s what saved it, even if the interior has not been preserved, it still looks amazing on the outside, unlike most of the Ukrainian castles The Carpathians are large and pretty everywhere you go. Of course, it’s impossible to show the entirety of it in one episode, so I have a request: if you now interesting places along our route that we should have visited, let me know in the comments, please “Shypit waterfall” This is so typically Carpathian. The murmur of the water, the reflection of the sun… God, it’s beautiful We will finish with the best-known waterfall of the Carpathians: Shypit It is the biggest of all the waterfalls and the most known, but… I wouldn’t call it the most interesting, because there were less tourists at the other ones and more freedom Here there is a line waiting for me to jump in for a picture When you are standing here, you know why it’s called Shypit, it’s because of the epic shhhh sound it makes Humans cannot create anything as grand as what nature creates. This is a belief that only grows stronger in me with time Pylypets village is one of the most visited places in the Carpathians. First, this is where Shypit is, and second, a ski-lift is operated here all year round. You can go up for a great view, which is what we are going to do now

Scanning. Thank you I’m nervous like it’s my first time See you late, Jenya See you. How do I pull this down…? An unusual part of this ski-lift: a special hook for bicycles, because this is also one of the coolest biking trails. God, the air is so great! Have a great day! You too, thanks! This is some luxurious lifting It works the year round, I’ve just asked How did you drive up here? On wheels! If you can’t drive up, we use a helicopter Cool Yeah Do you have many tourists here? We are doing ok now. Many people go on foot, but if anyone wants a drive, they can have it too Great. What’s the view like, is it great? Very much so. There is no snow now, and the mountains can be seen Here, the elevation is 1160 meters, over there it’s 1493 meters, you can see all the mountains from there Get in Let’s go It’s great, it’s a ski resort that is open in summer (almost). All of the restaurants work, you can buy tea or gluhwein and whatever you want in general Can any other vehicle make it up? Yes, any 4×4 vehicle can It’s getting colder! Good day! Quite unexpectedly we find ourselves on a safari ride. The snowy kind People are walking and we are taking the car. I feel golden Here it is, the snow. This looks like a photo wallpaper for a computer desktop. Wow… the view is breathtaking. Thank you! This is magic, I didn’t even expect it to be so beautiful. It’s breathtaking. You can see all of the Carpathians here, and the mountains recede into the horizon little by little, hidden by the haze in the distance It’s such a delight! This is unreal. So beautiful, but I already said that… let’s just enjoy the view “Home is best!” And the echo says, “No doubt!” Please, people, come here yourself and experience this! Ok. Hello. Not a talkative one “Richka” Do you remember the white cape that I put on at Yanko’s place? It’s called a hunya,

and there is Richka village not far from Pylypets, which is famous for the hunyas they make here We’ve come to see valylo… valylo… A natural washing machine, call it valylo A natural washing machine It’s used for bleaching of wool, right? It’s for stretching the product made of wool This hunya, this woven hunya is put into the valylo, it is soaked with water in our Richka way, so that is becomes fluffy When it’s good and fluffy, it’s sewn, but it can be sewn without it, but this one is new and not sewn yet The only thing I understood from all that is that it’s good and it’s sewn It’s so soft It has fluff and it becomes so good You don’t have a new hunya to sell, do you? No Sold out? Yes, they have all been sold, the last one was sold on the Internet The buyer saw a photo, sent us the payment and we shipped him the hunya We made this new one, but the valylo broke, so we had no way of treating it. The valylo is still there, but the dam broke Let’s take a look There is this groove that water runs through into that koshar That’s that vat there, right? Aha I wore a hunya yesterday in the mountains, I was freezing… Was it warm? I put it on and I was warm almost immediately It’s very warm. But there are no more sheep, nothing to make it with. You have to keep sheep and shear the wool Ok, so I did more research, asked around, and I can tell you about it. Water comes here through that groove into this vat They put a hunya in there, the running water makes it spin, then the water flow out, the hunya remains spinning here for a while, it becomes fluffy and pleasant to the touch, they pull it out, dry it, sew it and wear it. That’s the process So, what would be the more valuable hunya, a new one, or one that has been worn for some time? A new one, of course A new one, yes? A new one. It’s white and fine I liked an old one a lot, it has spirit It depends, I guess As long as you don’t put it in the rain, it can serve for a hundred years. If you just wear it and keep it in a wardrobe Those who visit our village say that we have the best hunyas. The best ones are in Richka There we have wool, that wool is picked… This? Yes, let me show you Is it done by hand? Yes, it’s all done by hand. This is how it’s picked. Then it’s combed with a special brush Then it’s wound on this spinner, and later we take this spindle and spin the wool, making a thread And it’s all done by hand, isn’t it? Yes, it is. The threads are put onto this frame, fixed with special planks to keep it straight, and then it’s woven with the shuttle What are these hairy ones? It’s a kotsovanya A kotsovanya? It is a hunya kotsovanya. Those are mostly worn by sheep herders, but we made this one for fashion girls, as you can see, it can be worn by any fashionable lady, it’s pretty, comfortable and warm. This is an embroidered hunya I like this one a lot There are different sheep, some are white, some are grey or black. This is from white sheep White, it’s exquisite All of these strands are tied to it. See? Every one of them, and it is a hellish toil This must take a long time. You keep saying “no” and nodding your head, does that mean “yes”? Yes

Ok, I understand now Do I really say that? I just couldn’t understand the “no-no” I’ll try on this fashionable one. I look good in it. I feel more important wearing it. Oh, this one is… Luxurious! Imagine going on a date wearing this. I wish there was a hood. That would be like “Ameno, ameno…” Who needs blankets? They should hand out these in restaurants. I also noticed, as soon as you put it on, you start touching it, it’s so soft to the touch. Dear Moose, let’s film a “Home is best: shopping” feature? Ok, time to eat. Let’s go to a highway café! Today we are going to the “Synevyr Pass” First courses: bograch with game meat… fish soup… borscht. Ok, borscht or bograch? It’s bograch Main courses: grilled pork, duck fillet, venison, Transcarpathian trout, venison goulash… Ok, goulash it is That settles it: bograch with game meat and venison goulash. And smoked fruit compote What does “game meat” include? Venison So, I get both dishes with venison, don’t I? Yes Ok Let’s check the prices. The bograch I chose is 140 UAH for 300 grams, borscht is 98 UAH… not cheap The goulash is 190 UAH… what’s the most expensive dish? 280UAH, that’s grilled pork, baked potatoes and vegetables. Not cheap at all Thank you! Ah. Even the smell is different. It smells like bograch, but there is a wild scent to it It says here that bograch is a Hungarian soup, also popular in the Transcarpathia, that’s common knowledge, other names are bohorach, bohoroch, or a Hungarian goulash This name includes the method of cooking: it stems from the Hungarian word bogracs, which translates as “cooking pot”. If you are ever in the Transcarpathia, you absolutely must try bograch, because it’s only delicious here and nowhere else. Let’s try it It’s fatty and filling You know at first spoon it is going to fill. There are a lot of spices, it’s very rich in taste The smell is very interesting, venison adds a certain flavor Venison itself is quite tender, a lot like veal, a bit denser, maybe, wilder. If feels like those muscles have been put to use I know why bograch is so popular here, it’s because it’s damn and cold outside, and this dish warms you up inside, works just as well as homemade spirit. I didn’t try it, I speak from second-hand accounts Another thing I like about bograch is that it’s a soup, but it’s also potatoes with sauce There are so many vegetables and meat here that it’s nature is arguable, whether it is a soup with potatoes, or potatoes with sauce. Regardless, it’s all delicious, potatoes, sauce and meat. It made me feel hot This is great: having a bograch and enjoying the scenery. Awesome Well, this is neat. Carpathian juice – acacia blossoms. It’s a lot like birch juice, it feels like water, but it is sweet It is the same here. Delicious. Ok, thanks for the bograch, let’s try goulash

With my method of choosing the dishes I ended up with two nearly identical dishes Well, let’s try it. Goat cheese adds a very special flavor. When I mixed it, they are not that similar The cheese made it thicker. And anyway, this is our Highway café feature, which means that the first one of you to come here and says, “I want my meal by Home is best”, gets this same collection on us to find out which tastes better: bograch or goulash. It is thicker, though, of course. It’s spicier, too, and the goat cheese influenced the taste a lot. There are a lot of spices, a bit of the goat milk sourness, plus venison. It’s very interesting I’d probably say bograch is the winner. Well, there is your difference: you eat bograch with a spoon, and goulash with a fork. The dishes are different A visit to the Carpathians would not be complete without Lake Synevyr. I am not sure if I should talk about the lake, because it’s one of the most prominent tourist locations in the Carpathians, but we couldn’t miss it, because it’s a beautiful place. I must have said this a hundred times already How is it going? It’s great! Is it? Why are you not helping? They won’t let us! They don’t? No, we asked! So, is it worth going there? Yes, you must, and you should make a wish there A wish, huh… I’d go, looks like fun I’m game, we can even row Hello, how much is your ride? Thirty hryvnia Only thirty hryvnia? All the hard work rowing there and back for just thirty hryvnia? How much do we have to pay for you to let us row? Impressive. It’s not a boat, it’s a real Carpathian raft What makes Lake Synevyr so popular in Ukraine? You won’t find another lake at such elevation. If you haven’t been here, consider you lost half your life See? Who hasn’t been to this lake, it’s like losing half your life Ok, I’ll try Right oar No, left Have you heard the echo? No Oh wow You know, it looks harder than it is. The rowing is not that difficult, but the range of motion is a lot different from a row boat It’s like a dance

(Sings) I don’t know many songs This is an exciting moment Right now, we are standing on the Pupil It’s so awesome to come to familiar places. I’ve been at this lake many times, but I have never been on this spot Rediscovering the same places, with a different weather, a different mood and with different companions, feeling different emotions. I like it a lot They said something about making a wish here Yes, spin a coin, toss it into the water and make a wish Ok My fellow Ukrainians… Our country is amazing. Let’s be sincerely proud of it It’s also great to come to familiar places and notice changes for the better In the past, there was a cable across the lake from that side to this Thanks to our activist friend Vitaliy Hlahola from Uzhorod, it was removed. You may say it is no big deal, but it’s still a very pleasant change, because this cable used to ruin any good photo, and cameramen had to watch for that cable when they were filming from their drones. There is no obstruction now Do you know why this lake is called Synevyr? I’ll tell you. There is a very romantic story about a girl named Syn, who came from a very wealthy family, and a regular poor guy by the name Vyr Vyr was killed here, and she cried so hard that her tears filled the lake. In which case it should be salty Wow, this is something I haven’t seen before People hammer in their coins like this to keep them from falling out. Awesome Well, my friends, I have two news for you, good and bad. I’ll start with the bad one Here, at this spot, our episode is coming to an end The good news is that you can expect a sequel in a week: the Carpathians-2, because there are so many interesting places and people here that deserve to be told about and impressed with Awe is a continuous feeling in these parts. And you should come and see it with your own eyes, because if we want Ukraine to become a tourist country, we first need to travel in Ukraine ourselves All right, see you next week!