04 The Riders Edge Front Tire Change HD

Just another WordPress site

04 The Riders Edge Front Tire Change HD

hey everyone welcome to the riders edge TV my name is Josh I’m usually behind the camera telling Karen what to do but you know what I’m the one that gets to go out and have all the fun why she’s stuck at the shop doing all the fixes and repairs now I might not be as good as looking that she is but you know what I’m having fun we’re going to see different vendors we’re going to see manufacturers custom builders racers all kinds of cool things that we got coming up for the show in fact today we’re at Nick and glottic originals and Nick and glide himself is going to do a tire change because one of our viewers requested that’s what he wanted to see so Michael figure ah this is just for you hi I’m Nick anglada with niki lauda originals and on this episode of the riders edge TV we’re going to be changing the front tire on this 2005 yamaha r1 as we’re taking the front tire off this r1 today we want to emphasize safety first you want to make sure that the rear tire is secure before you lift the front tire off the ground front wheel stands tend to make the bike steer so if the rear wheel is locked in place you won’t have a chance of the bike falling over damaging your bike or causing injury to yourself so in order to change a tire on this r1 today we’re going to need basic hand tools that are readily available you’re going to need a socket set a ratchet and some Allen wrenches these obviously are going to be different sizes from different motorcycles the best thing to do is always check your owners manual that way you can always check torque specs when you put everything back together first off what we want to do is we want to loosen the front fenders but on a lot of motorcycles nowadays what happens is that the brake line is attached with a bracket to the front fender and since this is so short it keeps you from moving a caliper out so in order to remove the wheel so on this bike just to be safe we’re going to go ahead and remove the front fender it can be a little bit tight and you might have to squeeze the back of the fender to pull it through but what you don’t want to do is leave it on because if you pull the wheel forward it’s going to fall down and it will scratch the fender so with the fender moved out of the way we can access everything readily so this Mike we’re gonna have to remove the calipers gets do the offset of the rotors the calipers actually get in the way of removing the wheels now these are radio mount calipers which means the bolts actually go in from the top a lot of older bikes will have actual amount even some newer bikes still have axial mounts where the bolts come in from the side to attach them to the forks now I need a little trick once you get this caliper off to get it out of your way is to take it wrap the caliper so it’s protected take a bungee cord put it around your brake line and then wrap the bungee cord around your grip this will pull the caliper out of the way it will protect the caliper from scratching the paint and it’ll give you better access when you’re rebounding the wheel is the calipers aren’t hitting the wheel when you’re doing this particular model we’re going to be breaking this bolt out of it end of the axle what it does actually pulls the axle tight and presses up against the spacers up against the bearings next we have to loosen the pinch bolts on both fork legs you don’t need to completely remove these just make sure that there’s not any pressure on either one now there’s going to be anywhere from 12 to pinch bolts on each fork legs once they’re loose move on to the other side do the same thing and at that point

you’ll be ready to remove the axle now we’re ready to remove the front axle depending on the condition of the bike and how many times has been worked on and weather conditions that sometimes corrode aluminum or steel depends out it’s going to come out usually without even using any type of ratchet just by putting the hex in here you’ll be able to turn and pull it out if this doesn’t work you’ll need to attach the ratchet to put additional pressure to be able to pull it this doesn’t always work now our last step if the axle was seized is to take a brass punch and a plastic dead blow hammer the reason we’re using a brad punch this is softer than the actual axle and will not ruin any of threads or causing any damage to the force you would just put this in and tap lightly now while you’re doing this you want to make sure that you keep one hand on the wheel to keep it elevated so it doesn’t drop down once we have the wheel elevated we pull the axle out we can actually bring the wheel down now this is very important you want to make sure that any spacers that are on your wheels are taken off and laid on the side that they actually came off of some bikes have different sized spacers so if they get mixed up it caused a lot of damage to your rotors calipers or even wheels first things first we want to remove this valve stick valve cap maybe a little bit tight depend on how how long it’s been on the bike now here what we’re going to do is we’re going to remove the valve court now this can be done different ways sometimes you can go ahead and change the valve stem itself depending on the age of the bike rubber valve stems they’re like anything else rubber it will dry right over time and it’s sometimes it’s safer to go ahead and replace them so these are in pretty good shape we’re going to go ahead and keep these and just remove the court so there’s many makes and models of manual tire machines out there there’s even automatic tire machines the manual ones are far cheaper this one here is a coach to 20 you can probably find one that’s used readily available for anywhere from two to four hundred dollars the guy that’s doing track days makes a lot of sense running back and forth to the dealership spending fifty dollars every time I’m a tire change you know you could easily save yourself the money buy one of these and save a lot money in the long run just do the fact that you’re changing the tire yourself next we’re going to break the bead but we want to make sure that we protect the wheel to not scratch the paint and we also want to make sure we protect the rotors we don’t bend them it’s not always necessary to remove the rotors in order to take the tire off this is actually the bead breaker what the bead does is actually pushes on this right here and it breaks it so what we’ll do is we actually put a rag here to make sure that this part here doesn’t scratch your wheel on the other side what we do is we take a piece of two by four with some kind of padding or even a rag on top and what this does is elevate the wheel so we’re not pushing the wheel up against the ground and scratching it with concrete at the same time that we’re elevating the wheel we’re making sure that the rotors don’t hit the ground common mistake that people make is don’t push the rotors and sometimes they’ll bend do the fact it’s so hard to break the bead on some of these tires depending on how long they’ve been on the vehicle now here we’re pulling the pin to actually adjust how far we need to be to be able to break the beat move the pin set it where you need it make sure that everything is secure put one tire put one foot on your tire and then push down once the beat is broken we can actually step around with our foot and break it all the way around to make sure that it’s loose it’s very important because you’re not going to be able to clamp down the machine without breaking the be beat is broken on both sides now we’re ready to secure it to the clap so for demonstration purposes we’re going to be using an old use wheel that’s no longer worthy to show you exactly how the Machine clamps onto the tire but removing the wheel you can see that there’s hooks here in three different spots now these are just depending on

what size wheel you have so you might be running a cruiser that has a 21-inch front wheel and you’ll have to adjust these accordingly these two actually pull out and can be moved into a different slot the third one is actually adjusted by a crank that’s on a screw so once they’re in place and they’re secure turn the handle until it’s snug now depending on what kind of wheel you’re running I recommend that you put some kind of tape or a rag to protect your wheel so that way it doesn’t get scratched so now that we have the wheel in place it’s locked down everything’s tight and secure the wheels not going to move we bring the arm down and we set the latch back here so as we’re pressing the bar to take the tire off this doesn’t come off now there’s several choices and taking tires off a lot of people use dish soap with water other people use tire lube sometimes it’s hard to get off the tire and gets on the actual tread what I like to use is a biodegradable environmentally friendly cleaner with diluted with water a little bit this makes it easy take the tire off next what we do is we take the bar we push the tire down hook the lip of the bar on the edge of the target and when you do this you want to lift up on the tire to make sure that you get a which we call it drops enter once this is done the main thing I want to show you is don’t do this do not pull on the bar you’ll get a lot better leverage by setting your hip on the bar pulling the bottom of the tire up so you make sure you have a drop center and just walking around by doing this the tire comes off a lot easier and you won’t strain anything trying to pull it apart we’re going to repeat the process sec second meet off which is a little bit trickier you have to pull both beats this time again hip on the bar lift up on the tire so you have a drop center move it around and voila so now we’re ready to mount on the new tire now it’s very important you look at this closely the are one has a directional wheels which means that the spokes are swept into a certain direction if you have swept spokes rule of thumb is always slice not hook so you want the spokes to be sweeping back and that’s going to be forward-facing otherwise there are wheels out there that are straight spoke but they always have a marking with an arrow to tell you which direction they go same as the tired all tires are going to have some kind of directional arrow it’ll tell you which way the tire needs to be going now here since we have the tire going this way and the wheels are actually sweeping and not hooking this is how we’re going to mount the tire again we spray cleaner on both sides to put the first beat on you usually will not need the bar you just simply push and it falls on bring the arm back down repeat the process and walk in the arm in place we will use the other side of the bar now which is the hook that actually pushes the tire down as we go around okay all right as you’re pushing the tire down you want to make sure that your bead stays down all the way around once you do this again put your hip in place tubed you bring in 60 the key is I’m having a little bit of a tough time here we’re going to need two people

somebody’s going to have to hold the bar down and keep the top bead drop center as we walk it around we want to make sure that this size doesn’t raise up and there we go so now we’re going to replace the valve core reinstall it kind of a tight fit once the core is in we use our core removing tool to reinstall it and tighten it until it’s snug once it’s snug you’re ready to put the air in now here we’re going to be using a air nozzle that actually has an air pressure gauge on it so as we air up the tire we make sure that we have the correct air pressure you might have to overfill it to seat the beads but once done you should release some air back out of it or add more just depending on what the manufacturers spec call for that’s what make sure he’ll catch my ham in here all the beads are seated I’m about 30 pounds pressure in here and we’re ready to mount what we’ll do is we’ll actually read the manual and make sure that the air pressure is correct according to the manual the manufacturer specifications so we’re ready to balance ass wheel and tire combination what we have here is a stack balancer that you can buy probably from your local motorcycle dealer they have it in parts unlimited other places like that they run about 150 maybe 170 dollars at the most depending on which model that you buy this is pretty easy what you do is you take the cones out on one side you replace the cone so it pushes up against the bearing when you have it snug this actually takes a three millimeter allen wrench you turn it until it’s tight that way there’s no movement and then we take the axle and set it on the rollers now the idea behind a static balancer is that the heaviest spot in the wheel is actually going to pull towards the bottom as you can see right now it’s pulling towards the heavy spot it’ll rotate back and forth and obviously the heavy spot here is where previously had weight now you want to remove the original weights is obviously the wheel and tire combination is not going to be balanced like the previous one was once the weight is remove will let the wheel go again to see where our heavy spot the idea behind a bubble balancer is you want to counterbalance the heavy spot so you want to draw a line exactly form where the tire stops at the bottom all the way to the top of the wheel this is where you’re going to be adding weight now that we found this heavy spot in the wheel we’re going to take some brake cleaner spray it on a rag and we’re going to clean where the heavy spot is to make sure that our adhesive is going to stick now the reason we’re using brake cleaner is because most of the dirt that’s on here is actually comes from the brake pads we’re going to do the same thing ha where we’re going to mark Gordon up to our weights now the reason we mark the bottom where our heavy spot is is because we’re going to take a police blue tape and Mark our heavy spot this way when we

spin the wheel around we come all the way down 180 degrees around and we know exactly where our weights are going to go now these are basic LED tape weights that you can buy any auto parts store they come in quarter ounce which is about 7 grams apiece and depending on how fast your heavy spot rolls and pulls down its depending on how much weight you’re going to need this one doesn’t seem to be going too fast sometimes when they are going too fast you might have a problem with your wheel being back now that we have our heavy spot at 180 degrees at the top we’re gonna put our tape weights on the bottom again take some brake cleaner clean the surface any dirt that’s on here is going to keep the adhesive from sticking which the weights will not stick to the wheel we’re going to take here one and a quarter ounces and I’m only taped pulling up a tiny bit of the tape I’m going to make sure that my tape weights are dead center at the bottom barely going to press them and I’ll rotate my weight now obviously now you can see this is the heavier spot at this point we know we don’t need this much weight i’m going to go ahead and take two weights off here as you can see these are easily you can move them back and forth and they break if you don’t feel comfortable to doing that you can always use a set-aside cutters to cut your weight and trim it accordingly if your weight needs less than a quarter ounce you could always cut your weights in half again we’re going to peel one side up we’re going to market bottom dead center we want to move weight in a couple places if again that is a heavy spot then we’re going to trim another way back keep repeating the process until you get the accurate weight and when you stop the wheel it doesn’t pull any more so now we’ve actually found a balance between the heavy spot and the weight it’s only take a nap that’s two quarter ounce weight since half an ounce or 14 grams as you can see the wheel is either barely moving or not moving at all and this is when you know it’s balanced at this point bring it back down to the bottom pull the rest of your adhesive off and firmly press the weight onto the wheel this will secure it also if you’re doing track deja racing a good rule of thumb is to put duct tape over here so it doesn’t spin off so now we’re going to put the wheel back in obviously there’s directional arrows to tell you which way you’re going your spacers if you lay them on the side that they came off of we’ll go right back in on some bikes the spacers don’t sit in properly or they don’t sit in a seal so you will need a second hand to keep the spacer in while you put in the axle so the tricky part just put the wheel back in holding the spacers in place yeah so once we get everything lined up depending on the bike sometimes you might need to get buddy to help you line up the axle and support the weight of the wheel while you push everything through hand me that mallet I’m gonna have Josh hold this that way we’ll make sure everything is lined up there we go now that we have everything lined up we tap the axle through will replace the bolt on the other side that cinches the axle snug it up just a little bit then we finish tightening up the axle

again check your manufactures again check your manufacture service manual for torque specs they will be different from every model now we’re going to tighten up the pinch bolts completely on both the left and right side of the force now we’ll remount our fender you once again I’m Nick anglada with making a lot of riginal I’d like to thank the riders edge TV for having me as a guest host on their show today and as always wyd smart and be safe thanks Nick you did a great job fixing that tire on that are one that actually came in from one of our viewers he wanted to see that done and if you have a question that you want to see done for our show on your bike or a different type of motorcycle please email us or write to us on our Facebook page like us on Facebook subscribe to our YouTube channel we really appreciate the time that you spend watching the riders edge TV now as always as we say ride smart and be safe you did a great job on changing the tire on that are one today and we want to thank Nick and glottis but specials originals