Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild part 6 – Lowbrow Customs

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Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild part 6 – Lowbrow Customs

– Okay we got some sub assemblies to deal with on our motor teardown We’re going to work on the crankshaft now (upbeat music) We’ve got a couple things we got to do here like this pesky bearing that’s very tight on there So we have a couple of pullers here we’re going to use for that We have this polar right here I’ll show you how this works Pretty simple and not very expensive I believe there’s a special factory tool it looks very similar to this I’m just gonna open that up, get it underneath the bearing I’m gonna tighten these down And that’s probably good enough for what we’re doing And then we have one of these types of pullers So we’re gonna to start a bolt in one side of it, and then we’re gonna pin a penny on the end of the crank ‘Cause you wanna always protect your crank You don’t wanna go shoving the tool down in the where there’s some threads Oh we got to open this, or I’ll turn this out And then you can get your other bolt in there Pretty simple stuff Nothing complicated Make sure both your bolts are threaded in the same amount, so that it’s pulling evenly Get our penny centered You have your 3/4 inch wrench And look at her, she’s coming right of there Piece of cake Here she comes No problem No harm, no foul Okay next thing we’re gonna do is we’re gonna take the rods off We’ll go ahead and flip it over And the reason I’m doing that is because the sludge trap plug is on the other side And you also may notice I have some aluminum soft jaws in my vise, and that’s because my vise has knurling on it for gripping things, and we don’t really want to be gripping the crankshaft or the bearing rods, now do we? Okay, next thing we’re gonna do, we’re gonna go ahead and grab a quarter inch Whitworth socket and take these off Fasteners here on the rod caps No big deal Now what I always like to do on my rods, some people put punch marks on’em to denote which cap goes to which rod It’s imperative that the caps stay with the rod they came off of And the other thing I like to do is I wanna make sure that when I put this motor back together that this particular rod ends up in the same place on the crank and facing the same direction So what I’ll normally do is I’ll just clean off that portion of it, and since my sludge trap is facing up, I’m gonna write st, and then I’m gonna write out So that denotes to me that this rod came from this journal on this crank, with this side facing out And once you get the bolts off of there, I mean sorry, the nuts Just gonna wiggle it, wiggle it, jiggle it a little bit And there you go Now here’s our, I’ll show you the plane bearings here that are going to get replaced Right here’s your plane bearing that rides on your crank That’s what does the where item. ?? So that just slides out of there I like that See that And they’re generally marked if they’re oversize I’m sorry undersized Because basically when you take these off of here,

and then there’s also another one here and for you guys that work on small-block Chevy’s plant, it’s called a plane bearing, plane bearing I’m gonna put my cap back on there I see there is no markings on this, so that means it may not have been a part before And I’m gonna put my nuts back on here too So we’ll go ahead and take the other one off and then we’ll take a take a look at the journals on the crank, and see what condition those are in So I’m gonna pay attention when I take this one off and I’m gonna mark this side of the rod out Because it’s going to face out when it goes back together Once again, just gonna pull that carefully take that off of there Okay came off like this, so I’m gonna flip it over, and I’m gonna write out on this rod as well Okay pretty simple No big deal After you get your rods off cause you wanna take a look at your journals Those look pretty clean and nice Now in a high-mileage motor what happens is this bearing surface that rides on there, spinning round and round round and round and round she goes, down the road you go, 80 mile an hour all day long It’s gonna wear that surface out And if it wears it down and you take these off and you see a kind of a copper color on there, it was definitely time for a rebuild And the other thing you can check before you take your rods off, is you can pull on your rod this way and see if there’s any play And there shouldn’t be, because this is a precision fit here You’re gonna find some play on the rods this way, that’s normal Don’t worry about it Nothing to worry about So you can look on the bearing shell on the backside of it, and I could plainly see that this one is marked STD, which denotes standard Now let’s just say everything was pretty, looking pretty bad here and you needed to send this out and have it redone, you could do they’re gonna, they’re gonna remove some material from this at the machine shop, and then you can get a different bearing like this and it’s gonna be ten thousandths under size, is what they call it So basically it’ll be a little thicker than this, and then it will still work right So if your crank looks terrible, you can still use it by having it machined This one looks very good, nice and clean No grooves, nowhere No marks the bearing shells still look in good condition So it’ll go back together with a standard, a new set of these and that’ll be that Let’s just say you did have some wear and you wanted to measure this You can do it you can get away with doing it with a vernier You don’t have to have a micrometer And so you’re just gonna, and this is gonna be in inches I have the book there to tell me what a standard crank should measure, your journal And I’m getting 1.624 inch Well if I go over here to my book, I can see that a standard for the bearing, suitable crankshaft size for standard bearing, right there 1.6240 So I can go ahead and check the other one just because we can Not a problem And I’m seeing the same measurement, 1.624 So cheap, cheap way to check it So I’m not concerned about these Totally reusable Now we have our fabled sludge trap Oh my god, there’s a sludge trap in here And should you be concerned about that? Probably because you know a lot of times when you take these out, this thing’s packed full And basically what that sludge trap is, it’s a centrifugal filter As the crank is spinning around it’s throwing stuff against the side of it Impurities and crud, and then it sticks and it builds up from side to side It’s not gonna build up from top to bottom And here’s a new sludge trap right here This is what it looks like Down inside here that’s your sludge trap,

and basically you’ll notice there’s some holes on here, and that’s pressurized oil, so that these bearings get pressurized oil to lubricate the rod as it spins around Now if your sludge trap gets completely packed full, whatta ya thinks gonna happen? Your rods not gonna get any oil Next thing that’s gonna happen, the rod may come out the side of the crankcase, and then you’ll end up with something that looks like this I’d say that rod went through the crankcase Probably not a good thing to happen to your motor Renders it pretty much useless So easiest way to get this outta here that I’ve found, is when I used to work for Harley Davidson I bought this tool right here I got it from Napa And there is a part number on here And it is a 1/16th drag link socket for a car Huh, imagine that Well what I did when I was working at Harley I actually ground the edges of this down and what I was using it for was the caps on Evo, Shovelhead, Panhead oil pumps And there’s also one on the crank case where the witches hat is But that’s a story for another day But any rate, drag link socket from Napa And in case anyone’s wondering, the part number is NE95 It will be straight across when you get it So you’re just gonna take it to your grinder, and you’re gonna make it rounded And the reason for that is because the plug is rounded Here’s a sludge trap plug right here See it’s got a slot there, and it’s rounded So that’ll fit in there real nice Look at that Gives it a nice bite There will also be some punch marks on here from the factory And that’s so that this doesn’t loosen up A lot of people say you have to drill those out, I’ve done it both ways We’ll go ahead and we’ll show you We I did this previously at the shop, because I still don’t have a new compressor for the garage, and I do use an impact gun on this job I like my half-inch Ingersoll Haven’t met anything that it can’t break yet I think I may have mentioned that in another video, or this up previous videos This gun here, if it doesn’t loosen something it will break it off It’s not likely you’re gonna break this off But at any rate So we’ll cut to the other portion of the shop We’re gonna put this And we’re gonna go brrrrrrrr until she comes out of there (music) (drill whirring) Okay we got our plug out, let’s have a look Holy moly would ya look at that? She’s so darn clean there’s no need to even take it out of there Geez, I know you guys wanna see me remove a sludge trap don’t ya? All right We got another crank over here that we’ll do it to Do it to it I can’t really see any reason to take this one out It just needs a good cleaning with some solvent or some brake clean, some compressed air Bada bing, bada bang Okay we’re gonna go ahead and remove the sludge trap outta this here other crank I have hanging around the garage, that also needs rebuilt And first thing we gotta do is we gotta, we have to took the cap out the sludge trap plug, and you have to take this bolt out, because there’s a nubby on it You’ll see in a sec here when I take it out, that indicates on that hole right there Once again Whitworth Oh she’s a tight one Oh goodness, oh my god she’s tight Here she comes Little bit of luber, luber duber on there, there never hurt anybody Oh boy here she comes

There she is Okay, there’s some kind of weird compound Boy she was loctited or something Well maybe they didn’t have Loctite back then, they put something on there But any rate, there she is See that Bada bing That’s in the sludge trap Okay, now you may have looked at our, previously looked at our tech tip on the website And I used to do this a little differently I used to use a very large MPT tap and I’d put it in there and I’d crank it in and then I’d hammer it out Well we’re gonna do it a little bit different today We got a tap here, and what we’re gonna do, is we’re gonna lightly tap some threads in there This is a five eighths 11 And then I have a corresponding bolt So, and you may also notice, this is a tapered style tap See how it kind of comes to a taper there You don’t wanna use a bottoming tap, you wanna use this style tap So we’re gonna drop that down in there, and maybe we’ll just give her a little tap So it’s kinda, kinda get it straight there, and then we’re gonna put some threads in her And we’re not really trying to cut threads, just wanna get something for that bolt to grab on to And the other thing we wanna try to accomplish here is we wanna try to get that sludge trap to turn in the hole If you can feel that thing turning that’s good That means it’s gonna come out We don’t wanna put too many threads in there because we don’t wanna push it out So maybe one more turn And let’s take her out and see how we’re doing here Let’s have a look (gentle music) Well let’s see how this feels now (gentle music) Okay it feels like it’s biting it Once again we’re not trying to crank this in ’cause we don’t want to spread that thing out Now what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna turn this nut down and we’re gonna cross our fingers, that it’s gonna pull that baby outta there And it kinda feels like it might be working It’s not pulling the bolt out And that wasn’t so difficult now was it gang? There she is, look at her Piece of cake There’s our sludge trap Now we’re not gonna reinstall this because this all needs to get cleaned very nicely But when you are reinstalling, you wanna pay very particular attention to that whole lining up with where we took this out Because if it’s caddywhompus in the hole like that, that’s gonna hit that and it’s gonna crunch that It’s not gonna work out right So, but as you can see you know there’s a lot of a, lot of people saying oh that’s a really tough job and that’s really sucks, and that’s really hard That only took less than five minutes We’re good Let’s move on to some other jobs we got gonna on here today Okay we need to remove the rocker shafts from the rocker boxes These a little, go with the rest of the parts for the vapor blaster I’ll show you a really easy way to do this where you don’t damage anything I just use this a center punch in that end of that where the hole

is where the oil feeds, and that won’t I’ve done it this way multiple times It’s never hurt anything ’cause you don’t really wanna hit on this with a hammer, and I guess you could use a rubber hammer, but sometimes they get stuck in the middle So this works real well And you’ve got your rocker rocker arms, rockers in here, and there’s some Thakuri washers, and we’ll see how that works when it goes back together I can show you when I get it outta here There’s also an O-ring seal on end, it does need replaced So even if you’re just doing a top end you still wanna remove these So I’m just gonna get that on there, and lightly tap it out And there you can see the the seal, oil seal O-ring So if you have oil leaking out of your, the end of this little thing here on your motor, that’s a pretty good indication that that O-ring has failed See that, see what I mean This one’s being a little stubborn There she goes There’s your rocker shaft And you’re also going to inspect these for wear They don’t generally wear unless something’s wrong That’s not too bad That looks pretty good You can also put the other some bushings on these, and then you could just come in here Actually it’s easier if you take these off your rocker caps where you’d be checking your valve adjustments And you could just slide this outta here and then you’ve got an arrangement of washers and such, springs and such Go ahead and take this one out And you may notice now you’ve got three washers that have a larger diameter, and one washer with a smaller diameter The smaller diameter washer is gonna be on this side when it goes back together So a lot of times that’s gonna be on this side So that one a lot of times I’ll just take this stuff and stick it back on here for safekeeping That’s a nice fit, no problem there Nice and tight And since these are gonna get blasted, I’ll go ahead and take the rest of this hardware off of here You’re reusing this stuff make sure you bag and tag it We got these two keepers And these parts right here are kind of important, and I’ll show you why You’ll see how this has a serrated edge, and you see on this there’s that little titty, little titty there So when this is on here and you tighten this down, it gets it gets to that and it keeps these from loosening and falling off while you’re going down the road So these are kind of important If you don’t have any you should have some on there And once again because of wear patterns and such, I’ll put these in a bag now, in a Ziplock bag, and I’ll put a little piece of paper in there and denote front or rear on the rocker box So when these are cleaned up and ready to go back together, these parts will go back in this rocker box I won’t put this part in this one, ’cause it didn’t come outta this one Piece of cake We’re going backwards this time We’re taking these off first instead of last And we’ll keep that one here We’ll go ahead and grab another towel (gentle music) There we go

Disassembled Once again gonna check for wear Can put this back on there You feel any movement side to side, that’s a good indication that something’s worn or it may need replaced You also wanna look at these, tips of these That’s what engages your push rod and you’re gonna look at these that’s your valve adjustment That one rides against your, the top the tip of the valve That’s where you do your adjustment through the hole Alright now that that’s done, we’ll take some valves out of our cylinder head Okay here’s our cylinder head You may notice here this side looks relatively clean, this side does not That’s probably an indication that a valve guide is letting oil leak pass the guide in between the fit the guide to the head fit And so you know anytime I do rebuild an engine I don’t just assume these things are gonna work right I wanna disassemble every single last piece in part so we’ll take the valves out The other thing you wanna look at in maybe making your determination if you’re gonna replace the valves or reuse them, is the rocker boxes we just took apart The piece that contacts this and opens and closes the valve as it goes you know, as the push rods go up and down If these are really, really worn where they’re gotta big cup on these tips where it touches Sometimes they can it’s common practice in automotive to grind that If they’re really, really worn, it’s probably better off just to put a new set of valves in there So we have this valve spring compressor available I personally like to clamp it in the vice, makes working with it a lot easier You’re gonna turn it all the way down, and this portion of the tool is going to be in the middle of the valve, while this portion of the tool is going to push the top collar down so we can get the keepers out So we can be able to get the tool in there It looks like I went a little bit more than I should have, but that’s okay We’ll just turn this one up a bit, and then we’ll turn this one down And when this gets to the top collar, you wanna kind of make sure it’s centered on there See how it likes to walk around a little bit Hear that? Not yet There she goes She’s been together for a while Okay so I’m compressing the spring, now you can see the keepers right there And I’m just gonna use a magnet There’s one There’s the other one I’m gonna release the tension Looks like I was darn near coil bound there Take your springs, you get the top collar Have an innerspring, and an outer spring And then you have a bottom collar There she goes

Now with these I just always put things back the way they came And look at this, this is very interesting here I’ll show you this And you’re just gonna slide the valve outta there See that? That guide looks real oily Hmm That’s on the same side that looks kind of discolored And then there’s also a fit that you’re concerned with here Basically the fit, the outside diameter of this, versus the inside diameter of the guide, is your valve to guide clearance And when you’re I’ll be replacing the guides on this, and probably the valves too, by the looks of this valve Then you’re going to install the new guides, and then they’ll be reamed to fit, so that you have the correct running clearance If it’s too tight, they’ll gall up, if it’s too loose they don’t wear prematurely So the other thing I usually do, irregardless of whether I’m going to use these or not, let’s just say your valves look like they were in pretty good shape, you might want to reuse’em, it’s a good idea to keep track of where they came from Once again wear patterns This is gonna be the, I just make a piece of paper here, and this is a anytime you’re doing right or left on a motorcycle, that’s concerning you’re sitting on the bike So this is the left, this is the right So this is the right exhaust, right exhaust I’m just gonna pop this stuff in a bag here The valve, all the pieces, and the keepers Like so And we’ll go ahead and take another one out and get a close-up of that so you can see what’s going on over here (lively music) Once again all of our purchase associated parts And we are going to be reusing the collars So you know anytime you’re taking stuff apart it’s a good idea to keep track of it Don’t just throw it all in a big pile, and then when it gets time to put it back together you’re looking for one of these little keepers Now see how that one’s very clean and nice looking where the other one looked really crappy Yeah it looks like we had an issue going on there Two more to go (music) One seems to be stuck in the groove There she just fell right out Spilled a little bit of oil on it And that particular valve, the first one we took out

was kind of stuck in there because all that crud Notice how this one’s just falling out So it’s probably not a bad idea to as you’re removing it from the tool, just put your finger on the bottom of it See how it just wants to come right outta there That’s going to be our eye Last one Pushing the spring down to reveal the last two keepers There they go There you have it All we’re gonna do now, remove that hose I’m gonna leave these on for blasting Sometimes these are real easy to come off, and sometimes they’re not As you can see by looking at that particular seat, that valve was not seating See if you look at that, you can see how there’s a defined line there You can see where that one was seating, you can see where that one was There was an issue with that one, and I would bet that’s the one Yep that has the crud around it So she was definitely due for a valve job And when you guys weren’t looking, I also removed the bearings from the inner tranny This is the layshaft bearing, was in this hole And this is the main shaft bearing I just heated these up This one drives out from this side, comes out that way, the other one comes either way it doesn’t matter Whichever way there’s less material showing So these are the parts that are gonna go to the vapor blaster, along with the crankcase Anytime I’m doing these engines I like to vapor blast these parts There’s just really no way in my garage to make this as clean as I can get it And we’re gonna take a little field trip to the vapor blaster You guys want to come along? It’ll be fun Whoo! (lively music)